英文名称：Free Solo
年代：2018
推荐：千部英美剧台词本阅读
| 时间 | 英文 | 中文 |
|---|---|---|
| [01:23] | Our next guest is a free soloing phenomenon, | 接下来这位嘉宾是一位徒手攀岩奇人 |
| [01:26] | please welcome Alex Honnold. | 有请亚历克斯·霍诺德 |
| [01:31] | Here is what I don’t understand. | 有几点我不明白 |
| [01:34] | One little mistake, one little slip, | 哪怕是再小错误 哪怕轻微失足 |
| [01:38] | and you fall and die. | 你就会命丧崖底 |
| [01:40] | Yeah, I mean, uh, you seem to understand it well… | 看来你很了解攀岩 |
| [01:43] | – Yeah. – Yeah. | – 是啊 – 是啊 |
| [01:46] | And I feel like anynoby | 我认为任何人 |
| [01:48] | could conceivably die on any given day. | 都有可能在某一天死去 |
| [01:51] | Soloing makes it feel far more immediate and much more present. | 而徒手攀岩让人感觉更直接 更真实 |
| [01:58] | Does it feel different to be up there without a rope? | 不用绳索攀岩的感觉会不一样吗 |
| [02:03] | When you’re climbing without a rope, | 不用绳索攀岩 |
| [02:04] | it’s obviously like much higher consequence, | 很明显 后果会更严重 |
| [02:05] | much, much higher level of focus. | 要求更高的专注度 |
| [02:07] | You know, it’s a whole different experience. | 是一种完全不一样的体验 |
| [02:12] | So it’s not like I’m just pushing and pushing and pushing | 不是说我会一直把自己逼到极限 |
| [02:15] | until something terrible happens. | 直到有不好的事发生为止 |
| [02:17] | I don’t look at it, like, with that perspective. | 我不会从那个层面去考虑 |
| [02:21] | But maybe that’s why it’s dangerous for me. | 但也许这就是为什么这对我来说很危险 |
| [02:24] | Maybe I’m too close to it | 也许我靠得太近了 |
| [02:25] | and I can’t tell that I’m speeding towards a cliff. | 无法分辨我是不是正快速地爬向悬崖 |
| [02:45] | Okay. | 好了 |
| [02:58] | I like to differentiate between risk and consequence. | 我喜欢把风险和后果区分开 |
| [03:00] | You know, when I’m doing these hard free solos | 在我进行这些高难度的徒手攀岩时 |
| [03:02] | I like to think that the risk, | 我喜欢把风险 |
| [03:03] | you know, the chance of me falling off is quite low | 就是把我会摔下去的几率看得很低 |
| [03:05] | even though the consequence is extremely high. | 哪怕这个几率十分之高 |
| [03:07] | And that’s kind of like | 这也正是 |
| [03:08] | one of the appeals of free soloing, you know, | 徒手攀岩吸引人的一个地方 |
| [03:09] | to take something that seems difficult | 把一件看似既困难又危险的事 |
| [03:11] | and dangerous and make it feel safe. | 做到让人有安全感 |
| [03:13] | So, do you think that, uh, | 那你认为 |
| [03:15] | being a rock climber has been a positive or negative | 作为一名攀岩者 这对你的恋爱生活 |
| [03:18] | for your dating life? | 起到的是积极还是消极的作用 |
| [03:19] | – My dating life? – Yeah. | – 我的恋爱生活吗 – 是的 |
| [03:21] | I think, uh, I think overall it’s been a negative. | 我认为总体来说是消极的 |
| [03:25] | Um, I just travel too much and I live in a car. | 我总是到处游历 而且我住在车里 |
| [03:34] | Let’s talk through some of | 我们来聊聊 |
| [03:36] | the climbing adventures you’ve had. | 你以往的一些攀岩活动 |
| [03:38] | The historic free solo climb, Moonlight Buttress. | 历史性的徒手攀岩 月华拱壁 |
| [03:41] | When I did it, it was like, “Oh,” | 攀登那里的时候 大家都觉得 |
| [03:43] | you know, kind of groundbreaking, kind of extreme. | 那是历史性的一刻 挑战了极限 |
| [03:46] | But for me it always felt quite easy and pretty secure. | 但对我来说我一直觉得很简单 也很安全 |
| [03:49] | Well, that wasn’t where you stopped, | 但你也并没有因此而止步 |
| [03:51] | because that next challenge then | 因为在那之后的第二次挑战 |
| [03:53] | was free soloing Half Dome. | 是徒手攀登半圆顶 |
| [03:56] | Half Dome was a huge step for me | 半圆顶对我来说是迈出了巨大的一步 |
| [03:58] | because it was twice as big as anything I’d ever soloed. | 因为它比所有我攀登过的山峰都要大两倍 |
| [04:02] | Free solo is so dangerous | 在这里徒手攀岩十分危险 |
| [04:04] | that less than 1% of people who climb attempt it. | 世界上只有不到百分之一的攀岩者尝试过 |
| [04:09] | Alex has done more than 1,000 free solo climbs, | 亚历克斯完成过数千次徒手攀岩 |
| [04:12] | but none were tougher than this one. | 但都没有这一次的难度高 |
| [04:16] | I got quite scared in some places, | 有些地方我会害怕 |
| [04:17] | and then you start to panic a little bit. | 然后会开始有点慌 |
| [04:19] | And then you have to, like, reel it all back in. | 最后就不得不退回去 |
| [04:24] | What is next in free solo climbing? | 下一次徒手攀岩准备去哪呢 |
| [04:28] | Well, I don’t know, I mean, I’ve thought about El Cap, | 还不知道 我想攀登酋长岩很多年了 |
| [04:29] | like, for years and every year I look at it and I’m like, | 但每一年我看着它 我就在想 |
| [04:32] | “That’s really scary.” | “真的太吓人了” |
| [04:34] | Um, well, I’ve never even wanted to really, | 我从来没真的想过要攀 |
| [04:36] | or I’ve always wanted to but then | 或者说我一直想要攀 但是 |
| [04:37] | I’ve always been like, “That’s too scary.” | 我总是会想 “太吓人了” |
| [04:43] | I’m aiming towards the most beautiful valley on earth. | 我要去的是世界上最美丽的山谷 |
| [04:48] | I remember coming to Yosemite as a little kid | 我记得小时候去约塞米蒂 |
| [04:51] | and my dad would always have a little cooler in the back of the car, | 我爸总是会在车尾箱后放一个小冷藏箱 |
| [04:53] | and have our cookies in the cold milk, | 把饼干放在冰牛奶里 |
| [04:55] | and we’d sit on these slabs above Tunnel View, | 我们会坐在隧道观景点的石板上 |
| [04:57] | which is, like, the most epic view of Yosemite. | 那是约塞米蒂最壮观的景色 |
| [05:01] | As soon as you see El Cap it’s like, | 只要你看到酋长岩 你会很惊讶 |
| [05:02] | “Oh, there it is, pretty exciting.” | 真是太刺激了 |
| [05:08] | El Cap is the most impressive wall on earth. | 酋长岩是地球上最令人赞叹的岩壁 |
| [05:55] | Yeah, I mean I love, I love being in the van. | 我很喜欢待在车里 |
| [05:58] | I probably feel extra comfortable in the van now | 现在我可能觉得在车里特别舒服 |
| [06:00] | because I’ve lived in it for nine years. | 因为我在车里已经住了九年 |
| [06:03] | My first van, well, I actually stole the family minivan. | 我的第一辆房车 其实是偷家里的面包车 |
| [06:06] | My dad died when I was 19 and I, I quit school. | 十九时我爸过世 我就辍学了 |
| [06:09] | There was some life insurance. | 当时有一点人寿保险 |
| [06:12] | I had just enough to dirt bag. | 只够我勉强过活 |
| [06:15] | Six years ago I was living in a Walmart parking lot | 六年前 我住在沃尔玛的停车场里 |
| [06:18] | and spending eighty-eight cents on dinner every night. | 每天花八十八美分来吃晚餐 |
| [06:21] | Living in a van is great but, you know, | 住在车里很好 但是 |
| [06:23] | at a certain point it’d be nice to have a bathroom | 有时候你会觉得有个浴室就好了 |
| [06:26] | and have, like, a shower at least. | 至少能洗澡 |
| [06:35] | So you have a girlfriend now, I heard. | 我听说你现在有女朋友了 |
| [06:37] | – Hmm, trending towards one. – Trending towards? | – 有这个发展趋势 – 有这个发展趋势 |
| [06:39] | Hmm, I mean, she’s very supportive about, | 她很非常支持我 |
| [06:40] | like, you know, you have to do you. | 做自己想做的事 |
| [06:45] | Yeah we’ll, we’ll see. | 再看吧 |
| [06:46] | But yeah, there probably will be plenty of girlfriends in my life, | 不过我这一生中可能会有很多女朋友 |
| [06:50] | you know, in terms of, like, big climbing, | 因为当涉及到大型攀岩 |
| [06:52] | lifetime achievement deals, where you’re just like, well, | 终生成就这些的时候 在攀岩和女朋友之间 |
| [06:56] | think I will always choose climbing, over, over a lady. | 我想我永远都会选择攀岩 |
| [06:59] | At least, you know, so far. | 至少目前是这样 |
| [07:04] | How many times have you climbed El Cap? | 你攀了几次酋长岩 |
| [07:07] | Probably like 40 something maybe. | 可能有四十多次吧 |
| [07:08] | – You ever free solo? – No and nobody has. | – 你单人徒手攀岩过吗 – 没有 没人试过 |
| [07:12] | Why haven’t you done it yet? | 你为什么还没去攀呢 |
| [07:14] | Um, look at it, like, I mean, you know, | 你看看它 |
| [07:15] | think about it, it’s freaking scary. | 想想就觉得很可怕 |
| [07:18] | I don’t know, so I mean I’ve thought about this | 我不知道 从2009年起 |
| [07:19] | since 2009, like, each year since 2009, | 每一年我都想要去徒手攀登 |
| [07:22] | I’ve been like, “This is the year,” | 我想 “就是今年了” |
| [07:23] | and each year I climb it and I’m like, | 但每一年我攀的时候 我就会想 |
| [07:24] | “This isn’t the year, like, this is fucked,” you know. | “今年还不行 太难了” |
| [07:27] | So I’m like, “Uh.” But the thing is I’ll never be content, | 但问题是我永远也不会满足 |
| [07:29] | unless I at least put in the effort. | 除非我至少付出了努力 |
| [07:31] | Because, like, if I do all the work and I’m still like, | 因为如果我真的努力了 但还是觉得 |
| [07:33] | “This is messed up,” | “实在太难了” |
| [07:34] | then maybe it’s just not for me, | 那也许这件事就不适合我 |
| [07:36] | maybe its future generation, you know. | 也许该交给下一代人 |
| [07:38] | Or maybe just somebody who has nothing to live for. | 或许适合一个没有任何生活目标的人去挑战 |
| [07:50] | When I thought about El Cap years ago, | 几年前 当我想到酋长岩时的时候 |
| [07:53] | there were question marks all over the walls. | 岩壁上到处都是问号 |
| [07:55] | It’s like I don’t know about this pitch, | 比如我不了解这个陡坡 |
| [07:56] | I don’t know about that pitch, | 我不熟悉那个陡坡 |
| [07:57] | like I don’t know about this particular slab, | 我不知道这块奇怪岩石的存在 |
| [07:59] | there are all these things that seem pretty crazy to me. | 所有的这些事在我看来都很不可思议 |
| [08:03] | If the ultimate dream is to solo El Cap, | 如果我最终的梦想是徒手攀登酋长岩 |
| [08:06] | then I need a good map of what that will take, | 那我需要好好计划一张地图 |
| [08:10] | you know, like a, a mental image of what the hard parts are, | 我需要心里有个谱 知道哪些是最难的部分 |
| [08:14] | where they are, | 它们都在哪里 |
| [08:14] | what they will entail. | 为了克服它们我必须做的事 |
| [08:18] | If I’m going to do it, | 如果要实现这个目标的话 |
| [08:19] | Free Rider seems like the best route. | 自由攀岩线路似乎是最好的路线 |
| [08:27] | What’s up, dude? | 你好吗 哥们儿 |
| [08:32] | Oh, actually, I might as well just rack it | 其实我不如直接把它 |
| [08:34] | straight onto my harness. | 挂在我的安全带上 |
| [08:35] | So, do you wanna lead the Freeblast or do I? | 你来领头还是我来 |
| [08:37] | I feel like we should do what we did | 就像以前一样 |
| [08:39] | before which would be you lead the, yeah, | 还是你来领头吧 |
| [08:41] | you lead the Freeblast. | 你在前面 |
| [08:43] | So, basically I’ll just try to take it, like, as far as I can. | 就是说我能走多远走多远 |
| [08:46] | Yeah. | 没错 |
| [08:52] | So Tommy just got here | 汤米刚到这里 |
| [08:53] | and they’re going up Freerider. | 他们准备去攀自由攀岩线路 |
| [08:55] | Okay. | 好的 |
| [08:55] | I’m just gonna try to shoot this pitch | 我会先试着拍山的这边 |
| [08:58] | and the traverse pitch and then | 然后拍横渡段另一边 然后 |
| [08:59] | I’m gonna jug out like a maniac. | 我会像个疯子一样立在那里 |
| [09:01] | Okay. | 好的 |
| [09:02] | Do we have enough line up there to do all this? | 我们有足够长的绳索完成这些吗 |
| [09:04] | – Yeah. – Okay. | – 有的 – 好 |
| [09:15] | The idea of going up on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell | 和汤米·考德威尔一起攀登酋长岩 |
| [09:18] | is to get a feel for the route and just visualize it. | 是为了亲身体验整条路线 用视觉感知它 |
| [09:21] | To see what feels scary and what doesn’t. | 去感受哪里可怕 哪里不可怕 |
| [09:24] | Oh, God. | 天啊 |
| [09:26] | Look at those fixed ropes the first climb. | 看看那些首次攀登时留下的绳子 |
| [09:32] | Tommy’s been a hero of mine since I was a kid. | 从小我就把汤米当做我的英雄 |
| [09:34] | I didn’t technically have posters of him up in my room as a kid, | 虽然小时候我没有在自己房间挂过他的海报 |
| [09:38] | but it was like the same deal, you know, | 但其实也差不多了 |
| [09:39] | where I was like, “Tommy’s the man.” | 我那时候觉得 “汤米就是英雄” |
| [09:44] | Tommy really showed what was possible, free climbing on El Cap. | 汤米向人们展示了徒手攀登酋长岩的可能性 |
| [09:48] | Tommy is the one that explored every aspect of the wall. | 汤米探索了这块岩壁的每一个层面 |
| [09:51] | And most of the routes that he’s put up on El Cap | 他攀登酋长岩的大部分路线 |
| [09:53] | haven’t been repeated because they’re, | 还没有被其他人采用过 因为这些路线 |
| [09:54] | they’re basically too hard. | 难度太大了 |
| [09:58] | And then, ultimately culminated with the Dawn Wall | 之后 他止步于黎明岩壁 |
| [10:01] | which was his multi-year project. | 这是个持续数年的项目 |
| [10:03] | I mean possibly the hardest big wall in the world. | 这可能是世界上最难爬的岩壁 |
| [10:17] | I’ve been obsessed with El Cap for years. | 数年来我一直向往着酋长岩 |
| [10:21] | El Capitan is unbelievably huge, kind of unfathomably huge. | 酋长岩极其雄伟 深不可测 |
| [10:27] | It’s 3,200 feet of sheer granite. | 陡峭的花岗岩壁高达975米 |
| [10:30] | Looking at it, it doesn’t seem right, | 看着它 你会觉得这是不可能的 |
| [10:32] | it doesn’t seem like you should be able to climb it. | 你没理由能爬得上去 |
| [10:37] | I understand why Alex is obsessed. | 我明白为什么亚历克斯着迷于这里 |
| [10:39] | El Cap has obsessed generations of climbers. | 酋长岩吸引着世代的攀岩者 |
| [10:43] | I think it was first climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding, | 1958年 沃伦·哈定第一次尝试攀登这里 |
| [10:46] | and it took them 46 days over 16 months | 他们共花了46天登顶 但是用了16个月 |
| [10:50] | because they couldn’t do it continuously. | 因为他们无法连续无休地攀登 |
| [10:56] | They had to drill bolts into the granite | 他们必须在花岗岩中打下螺栓 |
| [10:58] | and pull themselves up. | 再把自己拉上去 |
| [10:59] | And then ever since then, | 自那之后 |
| [11:01] | it’s been the center of the rock climbing universe. | 这里成了全球攀岩者们关注的焦点 |
| [11:09] | I’ve spent 20 years of my life climbing El Cap | 我花了二十年攀登酋长岩 |
| [11:11] | but I’d never do it without a rope. | 但我绝不会不要绳子徒手攀岩 |
| [11:14] | There’s no margin for error. | 那样一点错都不能犯 |
| [11:16] | Imagine an Olympic gold medal level athletic achievement, | 想象一场奥林匹克角逐金牌的比赛 |
| [11:22] | that if you don’t get that gold medal you’re gonna die. | 拿不到金牌 你只有死路一条 |
| [11:26] | That’s pretty much what free soloing El Cap is like. | 徒手攀登酋长岩差不多就是这样 |
| [11:30] | You have to do it perfectly. | 你绝不能犯错 |
| [11:37] | Today I am playing through a lot of different scenarios, | 今天我要模拟许多不同的场景 |
| [11:41] | so thinking about the moves, thinking about the body position, | 我要考虑步法 考虑身体的姿势 |
| [11:45] | and more than anything just thinking about | 以及必须要考虑 |
| [11:47] | what it would feel like to, | 没有绳索时 |
| [11:48] | to be in that position without a rope. | 攀岩是什么感觉 |
| [11:53] | There are a lot of things that you can physically do on a rope. | 有绳索时你能靠它做很多事 |
| [11:55] | Oh, God. | 天啊 |
| [11:55] | But then the idea of taking the rope away, you’re just like, | 一旦想到要把绳索拿开 你会觉得 |
| [11:57] | I don’t know if I’d wanna trust that little foothold. | 我不知道自己能否信得过那个小小的支点 |
| [12:00] | Oh, my God, | 天啊 |
| [12:01] | my feet hurt so bad and I’m so pumped and my hand hurts. | 我的脚好痛 我好累 手也痛 |
| [12:05] | I just feel pooped. | 要累死了 |
| [12:07] | We’re kind of getting worked. | 我们快到极限了 |
| [12:11] | When you’ve been thinking about something for years, | 如果你数年来都想着一件事 |
| [12:13] | that’s a long time to be, | 你在真正告诉别人前 |
| [12:14] | like, sort of considering an idea without, like, | 这个想法会在你心里 |
| [12:16] | really talking to anybody about it. | 酝酿很久 |
| [12:18] | Especially someone like Tommy. | 汤米这种人尤甚 |
| [12:22] | When I was climbing, like, | 我在攀岩时 |
| [12:23] | up the endurance corner and across the traverse, | 耐力到达极限 或是横越岩壁时 |
| [12:25] | I was just looking down thinking about, | 朝下看 我会觉得 |
| [12:26] | – I was like, “Dude, this seems so scary.” – I don’t know. | – “老兄 这好可怕” – 我不知道 |
| [12:28] | That part is just so exposed and it’s pretty. | 你会觉得很危险 但也很美 |
| [12:30] | See, that part again is like, | 那种时候 |
| [12:31] | at least you have holds though, you know. | 你至少还有绳子支撑 |
| [12:33] | The Freeblast slabs have like several moves where it’s like, | 但是徒手攀岩时 你会遇到的情况是 |
| [12:36] | your whole life just depends on one foothold, you know. | 你的生命只能靠着一个支点 |
| [12:40] | Soloing is like such a weird personal activity. | 徒手攀岩就像是一项怪异的个人活动 |
| [12:43] | You never talk about soloing projects. | 你绝不会提及徒手攀岩的事情 |
| [12:46] | I mean, I’ve done all my soloing without telling anybody, | 我自己徒手攀岩 从不告诉别人 |
| [12:49] | because I don’t want any extra pressure. | 因为我不想有额外的负担 |
| [12:53] | The idea of climbing El Cap, | 攀登酋长岩的想法 |
| [12:54] | obviously I get interview questions about it all the time, | 让我一直受到采访与提问 |
| [12:56] | like, “Oh, would you like to do that?” | 比如会问 “你真的想做那件事吗” |
| [12:57] | And I’ve always been like, | 我就会说 |
| [12:58] | “No, well maybe, we’ll see. You know, who knows?” | “不会 不确定 再说吧 谁知道呢” |
| [13:01] | But like in the back of your mind you’re like, “Yes, for sure.” | 但实际上 你心里想的是”一定会” |
| [13:13] | I used to be like a super picky eater. | 我曾经很挑食 |
| [13:16] | When I was like 19 or 20 or, well, | 我在19还是20岁的时候 |
| [13:19] | between like, 20 and 24, I basically decided that I had | 还是20到24岁的时候 决定开始 |
| [13:22] | to start eating vegetables, and then sort of, like, | 吃蔬菜 然后就 |
| [13:24] | systematically introduced | 逐渐地开始 |
| [13:25] | myself to vegetables, like one at a time, | 让自己吃菜 一次吃一种 |
| [13:29] | which worked pretty well, | 这个方法很有效 |
| [13:30] | now I pretty much eat anything. | 现在我几乎什么都吃 |
| [13:37] | I stopped eating meat maybe three or four years ago, um, | 我三四年前开始就不吃肉了 |
| [13:40] | mostly for environmental reasons. | 主要是为了环保 |
| [13:42] | Then once I stopped I also kind of got into | 我不再吃肉后就好像陷入了 |
| [13:45] | the ethics of it a little bit more. | 不能再吃肉的情况 |
| [13:51] | We’ll just see how this comes out. | 我们来看看最后成品如何 |
| [13:53] | Yeah, I mean there are plenty of folks | 肯定有很多人 |
| [13:54] | who probably think that this is, like, terrible. | 觉得这看上去很糟 |
| [13:55] | I’m eating, like, canned chili and eggs. | 我吃的是辣椒罐头和鸡蛋 |
| [14:02] | Growing up, I mean, I didn’t like eating weird foods, | 长大以后 我不喜欢吃奇怪的食物 |
| [14:05] | I didn’t like bugs, you know, | 我不喜欢臭虫 |
| [14:06] | I was just like a total tweeker. | 我曾像个瘾君子一样孤僻 |
| [14:09] | I guess I was quite a shy child. | 我当时很内向 |
| [14:12] | Bit of a dark soul, I think. | 有点阴暗 |
| [14:14] | Maybe melancholic is the word. | 用忧郁来形容可能更贴切 |
| [14:17] | I remember really liking to play with | 我记得自己很喜欢 |
| [14:19] | my Legos and play computer games and, | 玩乐高积木 电脑游戏 然后 |
| [14:23] | uh, and then obviously once I started rock climbing | 我开始攀岩后 |
| [14:25] | I was going to the climbing gym all the time. | 便常去攀岩健身房了 |
| [14:27] | But I didn’t really have a whole lot of hobbies or interests. | 但我没有很多的兴趣爱好 |
| [14:31] | I definitely wasn’t cool, you know. | 我一点都不酷 |
| [14:33] | I grew up in Sacramento | 我在萨克拉门托长大 |
| [14:35] | and the high school I went to, I was, uh, | 我读的高中 |
| [14:36] | in an international baccalaureate program, | 有国际文凭大学预科课程 |
| [14:38] | so we were all sort of the intellectual kids. | 可以说我们都是聪明孩子 |
| [14:41] | So, in a way it was fine to be | 因此 做个书呆子 |
| [14:43] | sort of a dorky loner cause, you know, | 也没有问题 因为 |
| [14:45] | the whole program was focused around that. | 整个项目都是围绕着学习 |
| [14:49] | There was definitely a time | 有段时间 |
| [14:49] | when I started climbing outside more and I was just | 我开始更多地在户外攀岩 |
| [14:52] | starting to road trip and go to campgrounds, | 开始公路旅行和露营 |
| [14:54] | but I was too afraid to talk to strangers. | 但我很胆小 不敢和陌生人讲话 |
| [14:56] | So, I was doing a lot of soloing, | 所以 我做了很多徒手攀岩 |
| [14:58] | or just a lot of climbing by myself just | 或者说就是一个人攀登 |
| [15:00] | because I didn’t know anybody | 因为我谁都不认识 |
| [15:01] | and I didn’t wanna talk to anybody. | 我也不想和其他人说话 |
| [15:04] | It’s freaking good, I’ve outdone myself. | 棒极了 我超越了自己 |
| [15:10] | Spicy chili really adds something. | 加了辣椒确实不一样了 |
| [15:19] | As a kid I just love climbing trees | 小时候我就喜欢爬树 |
| [15:21] | and climbing buildings and, like, playing on things. | 爬楼 到处玩 |
| [15:23] | 米拉洛马高中 加州名校 | |
| [15:23] | And when I was going to school here | 我在这里上学时 |
| [15:24] | I was also climbing on all the roofs and stuff here. | 这里的屋顶我都爬遍了 |
| [15:27] | Uh, and, uh, yeah. | 是的 就是 |
| [15:30] | It’s actually kind of intimidating talking to groups of kids. | 其实当着这么多高中生说话我有点害怕 |
| [15:32] | Like, when I was in high school I was mortified | 上高中时 我就很怕 |
| [15:34] | of standing in front of the class. | 站在全班人面前 |
| [15:36] | But, like, you kind of get through it and, | 但是慢慢就熬过去了 |
| [15:37] | like, eventually you feel more and more comfortable. | 最后你就会觉得越来越适应 |
| [15:39] | I don’t know. | 大概吧 |
| [15:40] | – There’s a question. – Um, yeah. | – 有人提问 – 请说 |
| [15:42] | How do you feel about being famous, just for, like, | 把自己的兴趣爱好变成职业 |
| [15:44] | turning your hobby into your career? | 并因此而出名 你有什么感受 |
| [15:47] | I mean, I think it’s the best thing in life | 我感觉棒极了 |
| [15:48] | to be able to take the one thing | 做你最喜欢的事 |
| [15:50] | you love most and have it, like, | 做出成绩来 |
| [15:51] | work out that you can make a living that way. | 然后还能凭这个养活自己 |
| [15:52] | You know, so it’s nice that I now get paid to do that, yeah. | 现在我攀岩还有收入 真是太好了 请说 |
| [15:55] | How much money do you have? | 你有多少钱 |
| [15:59] | I’ve got, I’ve got, I’ve got probably like | 我钱包里大概 大概有 |
| [16:01] | 40 bucks in my wallet, you know. | 四十美元吧 |
| [16:04] | Um, but no, like, a, a fair amount. | 我感觉差不多足够了 |
| [16:06] | Um, like, like, you know, say, like, | 大概 差不多 |
| [16:09] | a moderately successful dentist | 跟较成功的牙医收入差不多 |
| [16:11] | or something, probably. | 大概吧 |
| [16:13] | Mr. K? | K老师请说 |
| [16:14] | Alex, could you talk about your foundation a bit | 亚历克斯 你能不能说说你的基金会 |
| [16:16] | and what you’re doing? | 以及你在做的事 |
| [16:18] | Yeah, so, I started a non-profit, um, | 大概是四年前吧 |
| [16:20] | I guess maybe four years ago. | 我创办了一个公益基金会 |
| [16:21] | Let’s watch this piece of video | 我们一起看看这段视频 |
| [16:23] | so you’re gonna get a little taste of that. | 你们就会对他这个基金会有所了解 |
| [16:27] | Climbing has allowed me to travel all over the world, | 因为攀岩我有机会到世界各地去 |
| [16:29] | which has really opened my eyes to | 大大增长了见识 |
| [16:31] | how the rest of the world lives. | 知道了世界上其他地方的人们是怎么生活的 |
| [16:33] | I mean, I see all these people, | 我看到很多人 |
| [16:34] | I mean there’re like a billion people on Earth | 地球上大概有十亿人 |
| [16:35] | without access to power. | 没有生活用电 |
| [16:37] | And so I started my foundation sort of as an attempt to, like, | 所以我成立了基金会 尝试着去 |
| [16:39] | balance the cosmic scales. | 平衡这个世界 |
| [16:41] | So, I’ve been giving, maybe, like, | 通过这个基金会 |
| [16:43] | a third of my income every year through the foundation to, | 我每年都把大概三分之一的收入 |
| [16:45] | like, environmental non-profits. | 捐给环保公益组织 |
| [16:46] | I mean, so, like off-grid solar projects, things like that, like, | 比如离网太阳能这样的项目 |
| [16:49] | things that lift people out of poverty, but also help the Earth. | 不仅能帮助人们摆脱贫困 也对地球有益 |
| [17:07] | Ah, you get out. | 下车吧 |
| [17:15] | I met Sanni, book touring in Seattle. | 我在西雅图签收时遇到了萨尼 |
| [17:18] | And then we just have been hanging out ever since. | 从那以后我们就开始约会 |
| [17:22] | I think, I think this is our very first date in Las Vegas, | 这是我们在拉斯维加斯的第一次约会 |
| [17:24] | and I think we’re climbing, | 我们一起完成 |
| [17:25] | like, a very easy multi-pitch together. | 一次简单的多节式攀岩 |
| [17:27] | Um, you know I just took her up this big tall route because then | 我带她走了趟非常高的线路 |
| [17:30] | I kind of knew it would blow her mind. | 我知道这会令她震撼 |
| [17:32] | Is she a climber? | 她也攀岩吗 |
| [17:34] | Um, Sanni’s like a little bit of a climber. | 萨尼会一点吧 |
| [17:37] | She, she’s just starting | 她刚刚开始 |
| [17:39] | but I’d hardly characterize her as a climber. | 但我不会把她定义为登山者 |
| [17:42] | You see straight in front of us, | 你看我们正前方 |
| [17:44] | there’s like an depression that looks like a heart. | 有块心型岩石 |
| [17:45] | Yeah. | 是的 |
| [17:46] | To the left of that, that’s Freerider. | 左边的就是自由攀岩线路 |
| [17:48] | This is like the whole valley, like, | 这是峡谷全貌 |
| [17:50] | we’re driving in this highway. | 我们现在在这条高速上 |
| [17:52] | And then this is, like, the valley loop from here to here, | 从这儿到这儿一圈都属于峡谷 |
| [17:54] | the main rocks are all, like, between here and here. | 主峰都在这儿到这儿之间 |
| [17:56] | Okay, oh, maybe I should read this. | 好的 我应该好好读一读这本书 |
| [18:00] | No. | 不用 |
| [18:02] | Alex was giving a talk in Seattle, in December last year. | 去年十二月 亚历克斯在西雅图做一个演讲 |
| [18:06] | I didn’t know anything about him and I showed up. | 我对他一点儿都不了解就直接去了 |
| [18:09] | Wait, you’re wearing the same shirt in half these photos. | 等等 这照片里有一半你都穿同一件衣服 |
| [18:11] | I know. | 我知道 |
| [18:11] | Oh, Alex. | 亚历克斯 |
| [18:14] | Well, because I don’t have anybody to help me with my wardrobe. | 因为没人帮我整理衣柜 |
| [18:16] | Oh and then, when I got my book signed, I gave him my number. | 那时我把书拿给他签名 就给了他电话号码 |
| [18:24] | Which was sort of a joke with a friend but then evolved. | 像跟朋友开玩笑一样 然后就发展下去了 |
| [18:28] | I just thought he was really cute but also brutally honest, | 我觉得他很帅 但也太实诚了 |
| [18:32] | but I’m really drawn to that. | 不过这点很吸引我 |
| [18:35] | Whoa, look how precariously balanced it is. | 看这个 真是危险的平衡 |
| [18:37] | But he’s also just a funny guy, he’s weird. | 他很有趣 也很怪异 |
| [18:40] | You know, a weird dude, and I find it interesting. | 古怪的家伙 但是我觉得很有意思 |
| [18:43] | Oh, we tree pose on the tree? | 我们在这树上做个树式动作[瑜伽]吧 |
| [18:45] | It’s not wobbling. | 它不会晃 |
| [18:46] | It’s totally wobbling, what are you talking about. | 晃得很厉害 你说什么呢 |
| [18:49] | Just for you. | 为了你我才上去的 |
| [18:51] | I’m waiting. | 我等着呢 |
| [18:53] | Okay. | 很好 |
| [18:59] | When you start getting eaten by mosquitoes, | 受不了被蚊子咬的时候 |
| [19:00] | feel free to just start climbing. | 你就可以开始爬了 |
| [19:01] | Just keep the Grigri on. | 把保护器戴上 |
| [19:04] | I’ll wait. | 我在下面等吧 |
| [19:06] | Okay, whatever you’re comfy with. | 好吧 你高兴就行 |
| [19:11] | Having the girlfriend in the van is awesome. | 跟女朋友一起住在车上太棒了 |
| [19:14] | I mean she’s cute and small and, like, livens the place up a bit, | 她娇小可爱 让这里变得有生气 |
| [19:17] | doesn’t take up too much room. | 又不会太挤 |
| [19:19] | I mean, it’s, pretty much makes life better in every way. | 生活各方面都变得更好了 |
| [19:25] | Alex, you got me tight? | 亚历克斯 你拉紧我了吗 |
| [19:30] | This is nerve-racking. | 这太难了 |
| [19:40] | When I was lowering Alex, | 放亚历克斯下来时 |
| [19:42] | I was watching him come down the final section and the rope | 我看着他下到最后一部分 |
| [19:46] | went right through the Grigri, right through my hands, | 绳子穿过保护器 从我手上滑出去 |
| [19:47] | and right through the Grigri and he dropped to the ground. | 滑出保护器 他就摔到了地上 |
| [19:51] | It was my fault that I didn’t watch the end of the rope. | 都怪我 我没看好绳子末端 |
| [19:54] | It was just like, “Oh, my gosh, what have I done?” | 当时就想 “天啊 我干了什么” |
| [20:00] | The x-ray didn’t show much, | 拍X光没看出什么问题 |
| [20:01] | but then they took the CAT scan and then they | 但造影扫描后 |
| [20:02] | said it was, like, two compression fractures and. | 他们说有两处压缩性骨折 |
| [20:04] | But they only focused on they didn’t focus on the lower. | 他们没注意下面的 |
| [20:06] | Right after it happened I wanted to break up with her. | 事情发生后 我想着跟她分手的 |
| [20:10] | I was like, “Oh, this is bad for my climbing.” | 我就想 “这对我的攀岩太不好了” |
| [20:13] | But she said,”Is that really gonna make your life any better?” | 但她说 “那样真会让你生活变得更好吗” |
| [20:17] | I was like, “No, probably not.” | 我一想 “也许不会吧” |
| [20:19] | This is gonna feel a little uncomfortable. | 这个会有点不舒服 |
| [20:24] | I said, you know, | 我跟他说 |
| [20:24] | “I think we can move past this and I think you could have it all. | “如果我们能度过这次难关 以后就都不怕了 |
| [20:28] | I think that you could have a steady girlfriend and climb.” | 你可以有个固定的女友 也可以继续攀岩” |
| [20:33] | Exhale. | 呼气 |
| [20:35] | As it turns out, compression fracture isn’t too serious. | 结果后来压缩性骨折没有很严重 |
| [20:38] | They said that I could climb | 他们说我可以继续攀岩 |
| [20:39] | just be careful about pain management and all that stuff. | 注意止痛治疗之类的问题就行 |
| [20:44] | But it’s just a little bit rattling. | 就是运动时骨头会有点声响 |
| [20:47] | Because I definitely know some people | 我当然知道 有些人从很高的地方 |
| [20:48] | who have fallen super far and survived or, | 摔下来 没摔死 |
| [20:50] | like, gone through a tree and sort of been okay. | 被树枝穿透 也没事 好好的 |
| [20:52] | And now I’m like, “I don’t know, like, I don’t think I’d be okay.” | 现在我就想 “不行 我可能不行吧” |
| [20:55] | And so I imagine falling free soloing | 想着徒手攀岩摔下来 |
| [20:58] | or something from 50 meters up, I mean, | 或者从五十米高摔下来 |
| [21:00] | I realize that my body would just explode on impact. | 我的身体肯定会因冲击力大而粉碎 |
| [21:20] | In 2012, I was here for the first time | 2012年我第一次来这里 |
| [21:22] | and it was right before I went to Yosemite for the season, | 是在我去约塞米蒂攀岩之前 |
| [21:24] | and that was like my best Yosemite season ever. | 那是我在约塞米蒂表现最好的一次 |
| [21:39] | What was that, Alex? | 你说什么 亚历克斯 |
| [21:40] | I said you just passed halfway and, uh, | 我说你已经爬过半了 |
| [21:41] | the rope’s actually looking pretty good now. | 绳子状况还很好 |
| [21:46] | Yeah, pretty nice rock. | 这座山峰挺不错的 |
| [21:49] | I think the climbing here in Morocco, | 我觉得摩洛哥的攀岩 |
| [21:51] | it’s good training for El Cap. | 对于登顶酋长岩是个很好的训练 |
| [21:55] | It’s gonna make him strong, | 这会让他得到锻炼 |
| [21:56] | it’s gonna get him good at moving through the mountains, | 有助于让他穿过丛山 |
| [21:58] | it’s gonna make him feel fit. | 会让他有舒适的感觉 |
| [22:07] | Flowing through the mountains in the ways | 跟着亚历克斯穿行在丛山间 |
| [22:09] | that you do with Alex is addicting. | 这种感觉让人着迷 |
| [22:15] | His attitude towards risk, it makes you feel kind of invincible, | 他对待危险的态度让你觉得自己是无敌的 |
| [22:23] | which is emotionally appealing, | 很有情绪感召力 |
| [22:28] | but for me I don’t think it’s the smartest thing. | 但对我来说这并不理智 |
| [22:34] | Climbing with Alex is, it’s like a vice in a way. | 和亚历克斯攀岩 像是某种恶习 |
| [22:39] | It’s like smoking cigarettes with beer or something. | 就像抽着烟又喝着酒 |
| [22:42] | It’s like, I don’t really wanna do it but I just, | 我并没有真的想这么做 但有时 |
| [22:44] | like, let myself do it sometimes | 我就是放任自己去做了 |
| [22:45] | because it’s kinda nice. | 因为感觉还不错 |
| [22:47] | -Yeah, buddy! -Yo! | – 做到了 兄弟 – 没错 |
| [22:56] | Can you read me your journal entry for today? | 能给我读下你今天的日记吗 |
| [22:59] | It says, “Bey wall 7C+, one fallen crux, | “七点钟方向 一段下行险路 |
| [23:01] | two pumped, need more fitness.” | 两次肌肉过度疲劳肿胀 需增加锻炼” |
| [23:05] | Do you ever put things like | 你会在日记中写 |
| [23:07] | “Saw the biggest juniper tree of my life”? | “看到了有生以来见过最大的桧树” |
| [23:10] | No, not in the climbing journal. | 不 不会写在攀岩日记中 |
| [23:11] | – Miss my dog. – No. | – 会写想我家狗吗 – 不会 |
| [23:15] | And my mom. I don’t know, none? | 或者写想妈妈了 诸如此类的 没有吗 |
| [23:16] | – No, no. – No. All right. | – 没有 – 没有 好吧 |
| [23:32] | Alright, Jim’s gonna follow you guys down partway, | 吉姆会在中途跟大家下山 |
| [23:35] | Clair’s gonna pick you guys up at | 然后克里斯会在溪谷的谷底 |
| [23:36] | the bottom of the gully going into the base. | 通往营地的地方接你们 |
| [23:39] | Okay. | 好 |
| [23:40] | And then we’ll be shooting on the wall. | 然后我们会在山崖上拍摄 |
| [23:42] | So, once we pass you guys, | 一旦我们超过你们 |
| [23:43] | you guys wrap and then hike to the summit basically? | 你们就收拾设备徒步走到山顶 |
| [23:45] | Yeah. | 没错 |
| [23:46] | Jimmy and I have worked together for 10 years. | 我和吉米合作了十年 |
| [23:49] | We’ve climbed all over the world. | 我们攀岩过的地点遍布世界 |
| [23:51] | We are doing the triple link up too, right? | 我们还要三人锁在一起吗 |
| [23:53] | I mean, by the time we get to Yosemite we’re gonna be | 等我们到达约塞米蒂时 会像切恩说的 |
| [23:55] | as Cheyne says, “Yoked.” | “像耕牛一样铐在一起” |
| [24:01] | The team that Jimmy assembled are all professional climbers. | 吉米组织的队伍全是专业登山者 |
| [24:04] | The best possible crew for this kind of thing. | 是拍摄攀岩影片最合适的团队 |
| [24:07] | And so in a way, I’m like, “This is kinda awesome.” You know, | 某种程度上我会觉得”这简直棒极了” |
| [24:09] | it’s kind of just like I get to go climb with all my friends. | 好像我要和我所有朋友一起攀岩 |
| [24:16] | Mikey, we should put someone right here | 麦基 我们应当安排人在这儿 |
| [24:20] | because if you lean out you can see the entire freaking route. | 因为探出身子时 险峻的线路能尽收眼底 |
| [24:22] | Then let’s just put the 100 meter there | 那就把机器安在一百米外的那里 |
| [24:23] | and the 400 footer here. | 往下四百米在这儿 |
| [24:24] | Doubled up. | 放两台 |
| [24:27] | I’ve known Alex since he pretty much | 从亚历克斯开始挑战约塞米蒂起 |
| [24:29] | started climbing in Yosemite, 2008 or 2009. | 我就认识他了 在2008或2009年 |
| [24:33] | I’ve filmed Alex a handful of times, free soloing. | 我为亚历克斯拍摄过多次徒手攀岩影片 |
| [24:37] | And then we’ve also spent a couple of winters | 后来我们在南美洲 |
| [24:39] | together down in South America. | 一起度过好几个冬天 |
| [24:41] | So, uh, we, the time’s added up. | 相处时间就这样越来越多 |
| [24:43] | Uh, I spend a lot of time with him now. | 我现在经常和他在一起 |
| [24:46] | So, I’m scared because I don’t wanna see anything happen to Alex. | 我有点害怕 因为我不希望亚历克斯出事 |
| [24:50] | I mean, it’s one of the reasons that | 这也是我差点 |
| [24:51] | I almost said no to this job, and, I mean, | 拒绝这份工作的原因之一 |
| [24:52] | I think Jimmy went through the same stuff of being like, | 我觉得吉米也经历过这个过程 比如 |
| [24:55] | “Do we really wanna be part of this?” | “我们真的要参与其中吗” |
| [24:59] | I’ve always been conflicted about shooting a film | 对于拍摄徒手攀岩这件事 |
| [25:01] | about free soloing | 我一直心存矛盾 |
| [25:02] | just because it’s so dangerous. | 因为它太危险了 |
| [25:05] | It’s hard to not imagine, your friend, Alex, | 很难去想象你的朋友亚历克斯 |
| [25:09] | soloing something that’s extremely dangerous | 去做非常危险的徒手攀岩 |
| [25:12] | and you’re making a film about it, | 你还要拍摄下来 |
| [25:14] | which might put undue pressure on him to do something, | 这也可能为他带来过度压力 |
| [25:17] | and him falling through the frame to his death. | 害他在画面中坠崖身亡 |
| [25:24] | And we have to work through that | 我们必须克服这点 |
| [25:27] | and understand that what we’re doing is something that | 去想明白哪怕最糟糕的情况发生 |
| [25:30] | we can live with even in a worst-case scenario. | 我们也只能接受 |
| [25:40] | It’s a funny thing, | 有趣的是 |
| [25:40] | people who know a little bit about climbing, they’re like, | 稍微知道一点攀岩的人会说 |
| [25:43] | “Oh, he says he has it, he’s, he’s totally safe.” | “他说没问题 他是安全的” |
| [25:46] | And then people who really know exactly | 而非常了解攀岩的人 |
| [25:48] | what he’s doing are freaked out. | 听后却会大惊失色 |
| [25:51] | My dad was always like, “I don’t want you to go ice climbing. | 我父亲总是说”我不希望你再去攀冰 |
| [25:54] | I don’t want you to free solo,” you know. | 我不希望你再去徒手攀岩” |
| [25:57] | Just not, I wonder if your dad had been like. | 那就别做 我想你父亲以前经历过 |
| [25:59] | When he was my age, | 他像我一样大的时候 |
| [26:00] | he had had like 20 or 30 friends that had died in the mountains. | 有二十还是三十个朋友死在山里 |
| [26:03] | And now I’m at that point | 现在我也到了那种时间点 |
| [26:05] | where I’ve had, you know, 30 or 40 friends that have died in the mountains. | 有三十或四十个朋友死在山里 |
| [26:08] | That many? | 这么多吗 |
| [26:09] | Yeah, I counted them a while ago. | 是的 前阵子我刚刚算过 |
| [26:11] | I mean, like not friends but people in our community. | 也不全是朋友 也有圈内人 |
| [26:13] | Yeah, people, yeah, yeah, totally, | 没错 绝对有了 |
| [26:13] | like Kyle Dempster and Scott recently. | 比如凯尔·登普斯特和斯科特 |
| [26:14] | People that I have met, yeah, I’m like, no, yeah. | 有些是我见过的人 就觉得 天呐 |
| [26:16] | I haven’t had anybody die who I was, like, | 目前还没有非常非常亲近的朋友 |
| [26:18] | really, really, close to yet. | 在攀岩过程中丧生 |
| [26:23] | I don’t know. | 我不知道 |
| [26:25] | I think everybody who has made free soloing | 我想视徒手攀岩为人生大事的人 |
| [26:28] | a big part of their life, is dead now. | 都已不在人世 |
| [26:33] | John Bachar was a pioneer of so-called free solo climbing, | 约翰·巴卡尔是徒手攀岩的先行者 |
| [26:37] | he fell to his death this past week | 上星期 五十二岁的约翰 |
| [26:39] | at the age of 52 from a cliff. | 坠崖身亡 |
| [26:41] | And we’re sorry to have to report on the death | 很遗憾要播报此条消息 |
| [26:43] | of U.S. Climber Sean Leary. | 美国登山者肖恩·利里逝世 |
| [26:46] | Sean was killed in Utah and was found a couple of days ago. | 肖恩在犹他州身亡 尸体几天后才被发现 |
| [26:49] | Derek Hersey was climbing in Yosemite Valley. | 德里克·赫西在约塞米蒂谷攀岩 |
| [26:52] | His body was found Saturday morning. | 尸体于星期六早上被发现 |
| [26:54] | Hersey climbed, as usual, alone without ropes. | 赫西同往常一样进行徒手攀岩 |
| [26:58] | Most people that are pushing the limits, | 大部分人都在追求极限 |
| [27:00] | they have this mentality of | 他们的心态是 |
| [27:03] | “Screw it, whatever happens, happens.” | “管他呢 该来的终究会来” |
| [27:27] | I think all the soloing he’s done has trained his mind. | 我认为徒手攀岩训练了他的思维 |
| [27:31] | He doesn’t get emotionally affected by it the way that a lot of people do. | 他不像其他人那样受到情绪的影响 |
| [27:36] | And not knowing about the science of that | 说不清楚原理是什么 |
| [27:38] | is that’s probably a product of your past | 很可能是过去经历的产物 |
| [27:40] | more than it is just a genetic thing. | 并不仅仅是遗传学问题 |
| [27:45] | There’s been a lot of speculation about, like, | 人们对我有很多推测 |
| [27:47] | how I deal with fear | 推测我如何对待恐惧 |
| [27:48] | and, like, how I’m able to free solo. | 如何做到徒手攀岩 |
| [27:51] | People are just like, “Oh, well, he must be a thrill seeker. | 他们会说”依我看他就是个追求刺激的人 |
| [27:53] | There must be something defective.” | 他一定有什么缺陷” |
| [27:59] | So when a writer contacted me about doing an MRI, | 因此当有人联系我去做核磁共振时 |
| [28:02] | I thought it’s kind of cool just to go | 我觉得去做下检查 |
| [28:04] | and get an MRI and, like, see what’s actually going on. | 看看究竟发生了什么 也挺好 |
| [28:07] | You know, scan your brain and then see if it’s all there structurally. | 扫描大脑 看看脑内结构是否正常 |
| [28:13] | We’re gonna start the task now. | 检查马上开始 |
| [28:15] | Remember to press the button every time | 每看到一幅新图片时 |
| [28:16] | you see a new picture come up, okay? | 记得按按钮 好吗 |
| [28:19] | Okay. | 好 |
| [28:23] | We’ll see maybe it turns out I’m some kind of freak creature or something. | 说不定结果证明我是个怪人或者别的什么 |
| [28:26] | I’ve had several ex-girlfriends said that | 我的好几个前女友都说 |
| [28:28] | I have personality disorders or things like that. | 我有人格障碍 或者类似的话 |
| [28:31] | That there’s something wrong with me. | 说我有毛病 |
| [28:33] | Emotionally stable? | 情绪稳定 |
| [28:34] | Agree. | 同意 |
| [28:36] | Ingenious, a deep thinker? | 是否足智多谋 善于思考 |
| [28:38] | Disagree. | 否 |
| [28:40] | Tends to find fault with others? | 是否常常对他人吹毛求疵 |
| [28:42] | Agree somewhat. | 某种程度上是的 |
| [28:43] | Climbing a steep mountain would be too scary for me? | 是否觉得爬陡峭的山太吓人 |
| [28:46] | I have trouble controlling my impulses? | 情绪控制是否有问题 |
| [28:48] | Is depressed? | 是否抑郁 |
| [28:55] | Is my, is my brain intact? | 我的大脑正常吗 |
| [28:57] | Your brain’s intact and it’s, it’s quite interesting. | 正常 而且有些很有意思的结果 |
| [29:00] | Those little two dots that are further towards the top of the screen, | 屏幕上方的那两个点 |
| [29:05] | that’s the amygdala. | 是杏仁核 |
| [29:08] | So an interesting thing, do you have no activation | 有意思的是 你的杏仁体 |
| [29:12] | in your amygdala? | 不易被活化吗 |
| [29:14] | There’s just not much going on in my brain, it seems. | 看起来我的大脑里好像没什么动静 |
| [29:17] | Do you think my amygdala actually just doesn’t work or something? | 你觉得我的杏仁核是根本不起作用吗 |
| [29:20] | Your amygdala works, | 你的杏仁核能起作用 |
| [29:22] | it’s just that it needs a much | 只是需要 |
| [29:24] | higher level of stimulation. | 更高强度的刺激 |
| [29:27] | Things that are typically stimulating for most of the rest of us | 大多数人觉得刺激的东西 |
| [29:31] | are not really doing it for you. | 对你来说不够刺激 |
| [29:33] | Maybe my amygdala’s just tired, you know, | 可能我的杏仁核只是累了 |
| [29:35] | from too many years of being all gripped. | 因为这么多年来一直受着刺激 |
| [30:07] | I’m feeling quite fit, but, | 我觉得身体状态很好 但是 |
| [30:10] | there’s such a mental component to free soloing. | 对无保护攀登而言 精神状态也很重要 |
| [30:12] | The big challenge is controlling your mind, I guess. | 最大的挑战是如何控制你的大脑 |
| [30:17] | Because you’re not, you’re not controlling your fear, | 因为你不是要去控制你的恐惧 |
| [30:18] | you’re sort of just trying to step outside of it. | 而是要走出恐惧 |
| [30:24] | Oh, no, woo, sorry, Alex! | 不 对不起 亚历克斯 |
| [30:27] | And when people talk about trying to suppress your fear, | 有些人会说要抑制你的恐惧 |
| [30:30] | I mean, I look at it in a different way. | 我不这么认为 |
| [30:33] | I try to expand my comfort zone by practicing the moves | 我通过一遍又一遍地练习动作 |
| [30:35] | over and over again. | 来扩大自己的舒适区 |
| [30:38] | I work through the fear, until it’s just not scary anymore. | 我一遍又一遍地经历恐惧 直到不再恐惧 |
| [30:43] | Oh, no, no, no, no. | 不 |
| [30:45] | Oh, so slippery. | 太滑了 |
| [30:48] | But, for years Freeblast has given me the heebie-jeebies. | 但这么多年了 极限平板区仍让我感到恐惧 |
| [30:54] | You’re standing on tiny edges, | 你站在极窄的边缘上 |
| [30:58] | small variations in the texture of the rock. | 岩石略带凹凸纹理的地方 |
| [31:01] | If you slip, your hands can’t hold you. | 如果你脚滑了 手支撑不了你 |
| [31:04] | It’s just the two tiny points of contact that keep you from falling, | 只有靠极小的两点支撑着不掉下去 |
| [31:08] | and when you step up, there’s only one. | 当你往上爬 就只剩下一个点 |
| [31:24] | It’s like, it looks so much better today than yesterday, | 看上去似乎比昨天好多了 |
| [31:27] | but we’ll see. | 看着吧 |
| [31:32] | I probably fell about 30 feet. | 我大概滑落了九米 |
| [31:36] | We’re up there, we’re roped up, Sanni’s belaying me, | 我们在那上面结了组 萨尼帮我固定 |
| [31:38] | and then I just fell off, I don’t know. | 然后我就掉下来了 也不知道怎么回事 |
| [31:41] | I just, I don’t even know how, I just, like, fell off. | 我也不知道怎么会这样 我就掉下来了 |
| [31:44] | Show me how much you can go up and down on your own. | 上下转动脚踝 让我看看你能转动的程度 |
| [31:45] | It’s, it’s like, you know. | 就这样 |
| [31:48] | I think this looks to me just like | 我觉得看起来是 |
| [31:49] | – your straightforward ankle sprain. – Okay. | – 简单的脚踝扭伤 – 好的 |
| [31:51] | So, you know, we say ankle sprain, | 说是脚踝扭伤 |
| [31:53] | but more or less an ankle sprain is torn ligaments. | 但脚踝扭伤是不同程度的韧带撕裂 |
| [31:55] | – Yeah. – That’s what it is. | – 好的 – 本质上是这样 |
| [31:56] | So what does that mean in terms of, uh, like hiking and stuff? | 那对徒步之类的有什么影响 |
| [31:59] | I mean, if I just, like, immobilize it and then, uh, | 如果我把脚踝固定 |
| [32:01] | – still just hike. – Yeah, I mean, | – 之后徒步 – 首先 |
| [32:02] | – you gotta’ get yourself through the first few days. – Yeah. | – 前几天要固定 – 好的 |
| [32:04] | But after that and it’s just strengthening and rehab. | 但之后只要复健和康复治疗就可以了 |
| [32:06] | Well, and actually, can I make it worse really, through activity? | 那运动会不会让伤势变严重呢 |
| [32:09] | You could probably do too much too soon. | 过早过度运动可能会 |
| [32:21] | Wait, you don’t need to keep that right. | 等等 不用放在右边 |
| [32:23] | I can worry as much as I want internally, | 虽然我内心也会担忧 |
| [32:26] | but if he doesn’t do this stuff he’d regret it. | 但如果他不去做的话会后悔一辈子 |
| [32:30] | If Alex and I got married and had kids, | 如果亚历克斯和我结婚了 有了孩子 |
| [32:33] | I would feel a lot more willing to say what I thought about | 我会更大胆地说出我的想法 |
| [32:36] | what was acceptable risk or not. | 什么风险可以接受 什么不能 |
| [32:40] | He should have put his shoe on. | 他应该把鞋穿上 |
| [32:45] | – Stubborn. – Stubborn. | – 固执 – 固执 |
| [32:55] | I thought you were, you know, walking and stuff now, | 我以为你会在走动之类的 |
| [32:58] | I thought you’re fine. | 以为你已经好了 |
| [32:59] | Oh, I am, but what. | 我好了 |
| [32:59] | Doctors said you were supposed to push it, Alex, come on. | 医生说你应该去走走 亚历克斯 |
| [33:02] | Don’t you want some watermelon? | 你不想吃西瓜吗 |
| [33:03] | Oh, well, good thing you have a personal slave to do that for you. | 有个佣人帮你切西瓜可太好了 |
| [33:07] | I know, I’m pretty stoked about that. | 是啊 有个佣人可真好 |
| [33:09] | All right, is it gonna be that no matter how I do this, | 接下来是不是 不管我怎么切 |
| [33:12] | you’re like, “Why did you do it that way?” | 你都会说 “你为什么这么切” |
| [33:14] | I just want watermelon. | 我只是想吃西瓜 |
| [33:15] | I kind of wanted to blame Sanni to some extent | 在某种程度上 我当时很想怪萨尼 |
| [33:17] | because you’re just like, “Whatever.” | 因为当时觉得 “算了吧” |
| [33:19] | I haven’t been injured in, like, seven years | 我有七年没有受过伤了 |
| [33:20] | and then it’s like I’m hanging out with this girl that doesn’t climb | 然后和这个不攀岩的女孩在一起之后 |
| [33:23] | and I suddenly start getting injured all the time. | 我就一直在受伤 |
| [33:26] | It’s like you just cut down a tree. | 你切西瓜像砍树一样 |
| [33:36] | When they say “active recovery”, | 医生说”积极恢复”的意思 |
| [33:38] | no, that doesn’t mean you’re walking all over the place. | 不是让你到处乱走 |
| [33:44] | I would be happy if he didn’t free solo. | 如果他不去无保护攀爬的话我会很高兴 |
| [33:49] | I’ve always appreciated that he never told me beforehand | 我一直很感激他不会提前告诉我 |
| [33:53] | that he was gonna free solo or anything. | 他要去无保护攀岩什么的 |
| [33:55] | I could come down on him and say, “You shouldn’t be doing that,” | 我可能会斥责他说 “你不许去” |
| [33:58] | and alienate him, and, it would’ve alienated him | 然后疏远他 但疏远就疏远了 |
| [34:02] | because that’s his, whole life. | 因为攀岩才是他的一切 |
| [34:04] | I think when he’s free soloing, | 我觉得当他在无保护攀岩的时候 |
| [34:05] | that’s when he feels the most alive, | 是他最能感受自己存在的时刻 |
| [34:07] | the most everything, the most. | 是感受一切最美好的时刻 |
| [34:10] | Feels the most. | 感受最强的时刻 |
| [34:11] | And how can you even think about taking that away from somebody, | 你又怎么能从他身边夺走这么珍贵的东西呢 |
| [34:15] | you know? I wouldn’t. | 我不会这么做的 |
| [34:28] | I’ve been able to stand on one foot | 我能够在穿鞋和系安全带的时候 |
| [34:29] | while I put my harness and my shoes and stuff on, | 一只脚站立了 |
| [34:31] | and getting’ this like kind of, a minor victory. | 能做到这样也算是一个小小的胜利了 |
| [34:36] | I haven’t put on my climbing shoe basically since I did it. | 自从受伤之后我还没穿过攀岩鞋 |
| [34:40] | So swollen. So tender. | 还肿胀着 一碰就痛 |
| [34:47] | Unfortunately, crack climbing is all ankle-dependent. | 不幸的是 在裂隙上攀爬全靠脚踝 |
| [34:52] | And Freerider is 3,000 feet of crack climbing. | 而自由攀岩线路是九百米的裂隙攀爬 |
| [34:57] | All my friends that have sprained their ankles | 我的那些脚踝严重扭伤过的朋友们 |
| [34:59] | in serious ways have all been like, | 都这么说 |
| [35:00] | “Oh, it’s gonna be at least six months until it’s normal.” | “恢复到正常至少要六个月的时间” |
| [35:06] | If I can’t get this done in the next month | 如果我下个月不爬完的话 |
| [35:08] | then the weather will change and I’ll have to wait until next year. | 天气就会变 我就要等到明年 |
| [35:23] | You know, a couple years ago, | 我记得几年前 |
| [35:25] | I remember him telling me that he had never | 他告诉我 他这辈子从来没有 |
| [35:28] | fallen unexpectedly in his life, | 意外滑落过 |
| [35:30] | and now I’ve seen it happen twice | 而我现在见过两次了 |
| [35:31] | in the past, like, month. | 而且都在上个月内 |
| [35:33] | But when you hear stuff like that, | 听到这样的话之后 |
| [35:35] | you start to wonder a little bit. | 不免就会有点担心 |
| [35:38] | I had this dream the night | 在他打电话给我之前的那个晚上 |
| [35:39] | before he called me that he had, like, | 我做了个梦 |
| [35:41] | wandered into our house and asked us, and, like, started crying, | 梦里他来到我家找我们 然后哭了起来 |
| [35:44] | which really freaked me out ’cause Alex doesn’t cry. | 把我吓坏了 因为亚历克斯一般不会哭 |
| [35:46] | And then he had told me that he fell free soloing and started, like, | 然后他告诉我他无保护攀爬的时候摔了下来 |
| [35:50] | revealing all of his injuries, like he pulled up his sleeve on his arm, | 然后给我看他的伤口 他把袖子拉起来 |
| [35:53] | and in my dream a bone just, like, fell out of his arm and | 然后骨头就这么从臂膀上掉了出来 |
| [35:56] | it was all messed up. | 简直一团糟 |
| [35:57] | And that, and it was this really, like, kind of vivid, | 那真的是一个特别逼真 |
| [35:59] | but super freaky dream. | 但超级奇怪的梦 |
| [36:02] | And, uh, and then the next day he called me | 然后第二天他打电话给我 |
| [36:04] | and told me he hurt himself. | 告诉我他把自己弄伤了 |
| [36:07] | Hi, hi, Ingrid. | 你好 英格里德 |
| [36:08] | Sometimes, one at a time. | 有时候每次一个 |
| [36:11] | Hi, hello, how’s it going? | 你们好 怎么样啊 |
| [36:13] | – Hi, guys. – What’s up, Fitz! | – 伙计们 – 怎么样 菲茨 |
| [36:14] | So we got Fitz. | 菲茨来了 |
| [36:15] | Hi, Tommy, hi, Fitz! Are you gonna carve a pumpkin? | 汤米 菲茨 你们想来刻个南瓜吗 |
| [36:18] | Nice, that’s good. | 非常好 |
| [36:20] | That seems off. | 这个好像有点怪 |
| [36:23] | Alex said, “I want nothing to do with the pumpkin carving, | 亚历克斯说 “我才不要刻南瓜呢” |
| [36:25] | and I won’t carve anything and I hate holidays.” | “我什么都不刻 我讨厌节日” |
| [36:28] | I like having fun when I have fun. | 我喜欢享受玩乐的时光 |
| [36:30] | I don’t like being told that it’s time to have fun. | 我不喜欢被别人指挥说你应该去玩 |
| [36:33] | Yeah, I think we need to a little more. | 我觉得我们还得再来一点 |
| [36:37] | Whoa, she’s squirming. | 她在扭来扭去的 |
| [36:38] | I don’t know. Do you have a good grip on there? | 你能抱得住吗 |
| [36:40] | You put that in my eye again, I’m gonna drop you. | 你再把那个东西杵到我的眼睛里我就撒手了 |
| [36:41] | Why does it not want to see us? | 它为什么不想看我们 |
| [36:43] | Just kidding, I won’t. | 逗你呢 我不会 |
| [36:45] | He keeps. | 他没完没了的 |
| [36:46] | You gotta lift him up more, you need to. | 你得再抱高一点 |
| [36:48] | Bye, Tom. | 再见 汤米 |
| [36:48] | Oh man, you should have a lot of fear right now. | 你现在应该充满了恐惧啊 |
| [36:51] | Okay, ’cause’ I feel a lot of anxiety. | 因为我能感受到很多的焦虑 |
| [36:53] | No one in any part of my family has hugged | 在我长大成人的过程里 |
| [36:55] | during all my formative years. | 我家里的所有人都不互相拥抱 |
| [36:58] | I had to teach myself how to hug | 在我差不多二十三岁的时候 |
| [36:59] | when I was, like, 23 or something. | 我不得不教会自己如何去拥抱 |
| [37:02] | ‘Cause I was like, “Everyone seems to hug, | 因为我就想 “好像大家都在拥抱” |
| [37:03] | that seems like something I should get into,” | “我好像也应该这么去做” |
| [37:04] | and then I started, like, practicing. | 然后我就开始练习 |
| [37:07] | Now I’m quite a good hugger. | 现在我可是挺擅长的呢 |
| [37:08] | Yes. You see that the pumpkin is a van? | 你看出来那个南瓜是辆车了吗 |
| [37:10] | I did see it. That’s a precious van. | 我看出来了 好珍贵的车啊 |
| [37:12] | Is it a cat? | 那是只猫吗 |
| [37:13] | – I did the cat. – That’s good. | – 猫是我刻的 – 很不错 |
| [37:15] | – Look at that. – Um, I did it all by my… | – 看看 – 就是我自己做的… |
| [37:17] | Honestly, it does look good like this. | 说实话 它这样看着还挺好 |
| [37:18] | It looked terrible. I think, yeah. | 之前它不好看 我觉得 |
| [37:20] | Part of the thing with the L word, you know, | 爱这个字呢 有部分 |
| [37:25] | is saying love and stuff, | 就是要说爱之类的话 |
| [37:26] | is that, like, in my entire life | 而我这辈子 |
| [37:27] | no one in any part of my family has ever used, | 我家里的任何人从来没有用过 |
| [37:30] | you know, that word. | 这个字 |
| [37:35] | My Mom has only spoken French | 我妈妈从来只对我 |
| [37:37] | to my sister and I our whole lives. | 和我姐姐说法语 |
| [37:38] | She’s a French teacher, | 她是法语老师 |
| [37:39] | so she says, “Je t’aime” or whatever, | 所以她用法语说”我爱你”之类的话 |
| [37:41] | and then my dad didn’t talk about anything. | 而我爸爸不怎么说话 |
| [37:45] | Nobody had an emotional bond with Charlie. | 查理跟谁都没有感情的羁绊 |
| [37:48] | Charlie was probably what we call nowadays Asperger’s. | 查理很可能有我们现在所说的孤独症 |
| [37:55] | Charlie’s obsession, what everyone called monomania. | 查理的痴迷 也就是大家所说的偏执 |
| [37:58] | He loved to travel. | 他非常喜欢旅行 |
| [37:59] | He lived to travel like Alex lives to climb. | 他为旅行而活就像亚历克斯是为了攀岩一样 |
| [38:02] | When he wasn’t traveling, things were not good. | 当他没有旅行时 情况就不太妙 |
| [38:07] | Alex would do something | 亚历克斯要做了点什么 |
| [38:08] | and we’d call him stupid names, | 我们就用恶心的名字叫他 |
| [38:09] | “Hey, bozo, don’t do it like that,” just demeaning things. | “蠢蛋 别那么做” 这类的刻薄的词 |
| [38:14] | If you learn that about your self-worth | 当你这么小的时候通过这样了解自身价值 |
| [38:17] | when you’re this big, I don’t think that goes away. | 我觉得那个烙印是抹不掉的 |
| [38:22] | I have no recollection of that. | 我一点都不记得了 |
| [38:26] | I don’t think my dad put down anybody. | 我没觉得爸爸贬低了谁 |
| [38:28] | I think my dad is like a teddy bear, | 我觉得我爸爸就像一只泰迪熊 |
| [38:31] | but dad was pretty morose. | 但是爸爸挺抑郁的 |
| [38:35] | And then the thing is once they got divorced, | 而他们俩一离婚 |
| [38:36] | then they both were, like, | 他们就都 |
| [38:36] | so much happier and it all seemed great, | 快乐了很多 一切都很不错 |
| [38:39] | but he died the next summer. | 可他第二年夏天就去世了 |
| [38:42] | It’s really kind of too bad that he doesn’t get to see | 他没能活着看到后来的一切 |
| [38:44] | how it all played out, | 真是太糟了 |
| [38:46] | ’cause he put so much effort into nurturing my climbing. | 因为他对培养我攀岩倾注了那么多心血 |
| [38:53] | But who knows? | 可谁说得准 |
| [38:54] | Maybe mom thought that he was, like, holding us back or, like, | 也许妈妈认为他阻碍我们 |
| [38:58] | you know, not pushing us to achieve our full potential or, | 或者说没有推动我们去释放出最大的潜力 |
| [39:01] | like, whatever, you know what I mean? | 你明白我的意思吧 |
| [39:04] | My Mom’s favorite sayings are, “Presque ne compte pas,” | 我妈常挂在嘴边的话是 “差不多就不行” |
| [39:07] | “Almost doesn’t count,” | 英语就是”差一点也不行” |
| [39:09] | or, uh, “Good enough isn’t.” | 或者”过得去也不行”的意思 |
| [39:11] | No matter how well I ever do at anything, | 无论我做得有多好 |
| [39:13] | it’s not that good. | 都还不够好 |
| [39:20] | The bottomless pit of self-loathing. | 那种否定自己的无底深渊 |
| [39:25] | I mean, that’s definitely the motivation for some soloing. | 那绝对是一些单人徒手攀岩的动力来源 |
| [39:40] | Here we are. | 我们到了 |
| [39:43] | So I still never, like, quietly, | 我还是一直 |
| [39:45] | quite understand what happened when you fell, you, | 不太知道你摔下来是怎样的情况 |
| [39:47] | like, do you even know? | 你会有预感吗 |
| [39:48] | It should be just kinda, like… | 应该就像是… |
| [39:50] | Uh, I don’t know why I fell off, | 我不知道我为什么会摔下去 |
| [39:51] | but I mean I know that my skin was, like, hard and dry. | 我是说我知道我的皮肤又硬又干 |
| [39:52] | It was like lightly raining kind of and like really windy. | 有些小雨之类的而且风比较大 |
| [39:55] | Weird he doesn’t even say he knows what happened. | 很奇怪他说不清是什么情况 |
| [39:58] | He’s like, “I, suddenly I was falling,” | 他说的是”我 突然我就下坠了” |
| [40:00] | which kind of surprised me because I feel like | 而这让我挺惊讶的 因为我觉得 |
| [40:02] | he’s always so aware. | 他一直都那么清醒 |
| [40:04] | Or like maybe he’s not always totally aware. | 或者也许他并不是一直都那么清醒 |
| [40:08] | You know Alex talks about having this armor when he solos | 亚历克斯说他徒手攀岩时相信自己有层铠甲 |
| [40:12] | and I think as, like, a friend or a family member of him, | 我就想 作为他的一个朋友或者家人之类的 |
| [40:15] | you kinda have to have that same thing. | 你也得有层铠甲 |
| [40:21] | Like after that happened, for whatever reason, | 出了那件事以后 不知什么原因 |
| [40:24] | it kinda like waked me up more than normal. | 它让我比一般情况更加清醒了 |
| [40:27] | You know, normally I’m just like, “Oh, he’s got it. | 一般情况下我就会说”他有能力” |
| [40:28] | He’s such, he’s such a beast, you know, he’s gonna be fine.” | “他那么生猛 他会没事的” |
| [40:30] | But I just, like, | 但我就是 |
| [40:37] | am stressed out about the thing a little bit, you know? | 对他攀岩的事感到一点压力了 |
| [40:45] | Look, I don’t wanna fall off and die either, | 听着 我也不想摔下来死掉 |
| [40:48] | but there’s a satisfaction to challenging yourself | 可是挑战自己并圆满完成一件事 |
| [40:50] | and doing something well. | 是很有满足感的 |
| [40:54] | That feeling is heightened | 而当你确定在面临生死考验时 |
| [40:55] | when you’re for sure facing death. | 那种感觉更加明显 |
| [40:57] | You can’t make a mistake. | 你不能犯错 |
| [41:01] | If you’re seeking perfection, | 如果你寻求完美 |
| [41:02] | free soloing is as close as you can get. | 徒手攀岩应该是让你最接近的了 |
| [41:06] | And, uh, it does feel good to feel perfect, | 感受完美 这种感觉非常美妙 |
| [41:10] | like, for a brief moment. | 在那么一瞬间 |
| [41:15] | My friends are like, “Oh, that’d be terrible,” | 我朋友们会说 “那太糟了” |
| [41:17] | but if I kill myself in an accident, | 但如果我出了意外死了 |
| [41:18] | they’ll be like, “Oh, that was too bad,” | 他们会说 “那真的太不幸了” |
| [41:21] | but like life goes on, you know, | 但生活还是在继续 |
| [41:22] | like they’ll be fine. | 他们还是都会挺好 |
| [41:23] | I mean, and I’ve had this problem with girls a lot, you know. | 我跟女孩们就有很多这种问题 |
| [41:25] | They’re like, “Oh, I really care about you,” | 她们总说 “我真的很关心你啊” |
| [41:27] | I’m like, “No you don’t.” | 我就会说 “不 你才不呢” |
| [41:28] | Like if I perish, like, it doesn’t matter, | 如果我丧命了 其实也无所谓 |
| [41:29] | like you’ll find somebody else, like, that’s not, | 你会再找别人去 其实 |
| [41:31] | that’s not that big a deal. | 其实也没什么大不了的 |
| [41:33] | I don’t know. | 我也不清楚 |
| [41:37] | Maybe that’s a little too callous. | 可能这么说有点不近人情吧 |
| [41:45] | My foot is improving, but it still swells up a bit. | 我的脚在好转 但是还是有点肿 |
| [41:53] | Rope! | 绳子 |
| [42:01] | Pretty epic rappel. | 非常经典的滑降 |
| [42:03] | Uh, we’re just commuting down the wall, kinda. | 我们就是在顺着岩壁下来 |
| [42:07] | We’re just having a good old time. | 我们不过是在享受昔日好时光 |
| [42:11] | If you look at soloing El Cap objectively, | 客观来看 徒手攀爬酋长岩时 |
| [42:13] | there are probably six pitches | 大概有六段斜坡 |
| [42:14] | that worry me the most. | 最令我担心 |
| [42:17] | Just off the ground, there’s some insecure climbing. | 就在离地不远处 需要做一些惊险的攀爬 |
| [42:19] | And then Freeblast, Pitch 6, | 接着就来到了第六段 极限平板 |
| [42:21] | being the one I fell off of, | 就是我之前从上面摔下来的那个 |
| [42:22] | which is obviously a total botch. | 显然那是次糟糕的失误 |
| [42:25] | Then the down climb to the Hollow Flake. | 接着向下攀爬到中空页岩区 |
| [42:28] | And then the Monster Offwidth, | 然后是巨兽裂缝 |
| [42:30] | which is super physical, difficult style of climbing. | 这将需要超越身体极限的超高难度的攀爬方式 |
| [42:38] | When you’re in the Monster Offwidth, | 当你在攀爬巨兽裂缝时 |
| [42:41] | some part of you is always being crushed in the mountain. | 你的身体会被大山不断挤压 |
| [42:45] | Imagine like the worst type of Pilates class in the whole world, | 就像世界上最糟糕普拉提课程 |
| [42:48] | somebody like flogging as you do it, | 有人在你训练时拿鞭子抽打你 |
| [42:50] | and occasionally like sandpapering skin off your body, | 还时不时用砂纸磨掉你的皮肤 |
| [42:53] | telling you to hold the position until you freakin’ vomit, | 叫你保持姿势直到你累吐 |
| [42:57] | and if you lose the position you die. | 而且只要保持不住 就会粉身碎骨 |
| [43:04] | The Enduro Corner, in and of itself, | 进入耐力角阶段 |
| [43:06] | would have been the most difficult part of virtually | 这是我徒手攀岩生涯中 |
| [43:09] | any big solo I’ve done. | 遇到的最难的部分 |
| [43:15] | Your feet aren’t on any specific holds. | 你的脚没有任何确切的着力点 |
| [43:18] | What makes your feet stay to the wall is the amount of pressure | 你的脚仅仅是依靠你手产生的拉力 |
| [43:20] | that you pull with your hands. | 才附着在石壁上 |
| [43:24] | The harder you pull with your hands, the more your feet stick. | 你手拉得越用力 你的脚才会贴的越紧 |
| [43:27] | The most demanding for your arms on the whole route. | 这是整条攀爬路线中对手臂力量要求最高的 |
| [43:31] | And you’ve climbed 2,500 feet to get to the Enduro Corner, | 当你爬到了七百六十多米才抵达耐力角时 |
| [43:35] | so you’re pretty fatigued. | 你会精疲力尽 |
| [43:39] | But the piece that I’ve always worried about the most | 但一直令我最担心的 |
| [43:41] | is the crux, the hardest part. | 是难点 整个攀岩最难的部分 |
| [43:44] | To get past the crux, | 为了通过难点 |
| [43:45] | you have climb either the Boulder Problem or the Teflon Corner. | 你得爬上抱石绳段或是特氟龙角 |
| [43:49] | 2,000 off the ground, | 离地六百多米 |
| [43:51] | each of which I’ve fallen off many times with a rope. | 我拴着绳子从这两个地方摔下来过很多次 |
| [43:59] | The Teflon Corner, which is basically like | 特氟龙角就像 |
| [44:01] | a 90-degree corner of glass, | 一块九十度角的玻璃 |
| [44:03] | which is ultra-slippery, just fills me with terror. | 它实在是太滑了 让我十分畏惧 |
| [44:07] | Pushing against the two walls of it, | 撑着两面石壁攀爬 |
| [44:09] | with my feet on glass, my palms on glass, | 就像我的手和脚都在玻璃上 |
| [44:11] | and trying to make these little micro adjustments | 还要做一些微小的调整 |
| [44:13] | to keep my balance centered | 来保持平衡 |
| [44:14] | so that I can push evenly on all four sides of it. | 这样才能将力量平均分配到四肢 |
| [44:17] | And then I imagine 2,500 feet of air beneath my feet, | 我脚下是762米的深渊 |
| [44:20] | you’re, like, that’s just a crazy thing to think about. | 想想就觉得这事很疯狂 |
| [44:26] | The alternative is the Boulder Problem. | 另一条攀爬路径是通过抱石绳段 |
| [44:30] | But the Boulder Problem has a 10-foot section | 但是抱石绳段有一段三米的路径 |
| [44:32] | that’s incredibly difficult. | 简直难如登天 |
| [44:36] | It’s a very intricate sequence. | 攀登步骤十分复杂 |
| [44:39] | You’ve got your right hand on a crimp, left hand on a side pole, | 你要让右手抓住石头的卷边 左手抓住石头边缘 |
| [44:44] | and then you put your right foot onto this dimple thing. | 然后让右脚踩在石壁凹陷处 |
| [44:47] | Right hand goes up to a small down-pulling crimp, | 右手向上够到一块小的能下拉的石头卷边 |
| [44:50] | left foot goes into a little dish, | 左脚踩上只有盘子深浅的凹陷处 |
| [44:54] | and then you drive up off the left foot into the thumb press. | 然后左脚向上移开 靠着大拇指撑住 |
| [44:57] | That’s the worst hold on the entire route. | 这是整条路径上最难坚持的地方 |
| [44:59] | So, you get maybe half your thumb on the hold. | 甚至你只能靠半个大拇指来支撑 |
| [45:03] | Then you roll your two fingers over the thumb, | 然后换成两根手指来支撑 |
| [45:06] | switch your feet, | 换脚 |
| [45:08] | left foot stems out to this really bad sloping black foothold. | 左脚踩上这块难以立足的黑色斜面落脚点 |
| [45:14] | Switch your thumbs. | 换个拇指支撑 |
| [45:19] | And then reach out left | 然后向左伸手 |
| [45:20] | to a big sloping bread loaf type hold | 够住一个像面包条一样的斜面 |
| [45:23] | that feels kind of grainy. | 摸起来有点粗糙 |
| [45:27] | From there, you either karate kick | 在那要做一个类似于空手道飞踢的动作 |
| [45:29] | or double-dyno to an edge | 或是飞扑两次 |
| [45:31] | on the opposite wall. | 才能抓住对面石壁的边缘 |
| [45:34] | In some ways, it makes more sense to do the big two-handed jump | 有时候靠两只手做一个大的跳跃更好 |
| [45:37] | because you’re jumping to a good edge | 因为你能跳到一个不错的位置 |
| [45:39] | so there’s actually something to catch. | 有些地方能够抓住 |
| [45:47] | But the idea of jumping without a rope | 但是没有绳子就想跳的话 |
| [45:49] | seems completely outrageous. | 那真是不要命了 |
| [45:51] | if you miss it, that’s that. | 如果你没抓住 那就玩完了 |
| [45:56] | But then the karate kick always feels like you’re falling | 但空手道踢腿的动作感觉就像你会随时 |
| [45:59] | into the other wall, | 掉到另一面石壁上 |
| [46:00] | which also feels outrageous for soloing. | 对于徒手攀岩来说也过于冒险 |
| [46:19] | Honestly, it wasn’t like, | 老实说 |
| [46:21] | I mean I felt, like, pretty strong just pinching that shit | 我感觉需要非常用力才能抓住 |
| [46:23] | – and just being that, put the foot. – Well, as I said, | – 然后保持不动把脚放上去 – 就像我说的 |
| [46:24] | when you actually put your foot out there, I was like, | 当你把脚踩在那时 我在想 |
| [46:26] | “Well, that doesn’t look that bad.” | 好吧 看起来还能行 |
| [46:27] | Yeah, it’s not like crazy, but we’ll see. | 是的 这并不疯狂 我们拭目以待 |
| [46:38] | Did you take Ibuprofen this morning? | 你今早吃了布洛芬片吗 |
| [46:40] | Uh-hmm, I mean, I’m going to right now also. | 是的 我现在也要吃 |
| [46:42] | – For your ankle? – Uh-hmm. | – 脚踝痛吗 – 嗯 |
| [46:47] | I’m not, like, super stoked when he goes soloing, | 当他去攀岩时我并不会特别激动 |
| [46:51] | because he’s already a big part of my life. | 因为他已是我生命中不可或缺的一部分了 |
| [46:55] | I tell Alex I love him all the time, | 我告诉亚历克斯我会一直爱他 |
| [46:57] | and he shows me that he loves me all the time. | 他也靠行动证明着他会一直爱我 |
| [47:02] | – And really just dive in. – Yeah, yeah, yeah. | – 真的只是潜入水中 – 是的 |
| [47:03] | But I also tell him that I also need words of affection. | 但我也告诉他我想听到一些甜言蜜语 |
| [47:07] | We work on that. | 我们都正在努力 |
| [47:11] | In terms of learning how to communicate emotion, | 在如何表达情感方面 |
| [47:14] | Alex has a long way to go. | 亚历克斯还有很多需要学习 |
| [47:16] | And I said, “Sometimes I’m gonna tell you how I feel, | 我说 “有时候我会告诉你我的想法” |
| [47:20] | and I just need you to say | 我只需要你说 |
| [47:22] | it totally makes sense that you feel that way.” | “我能理解你的感受” |
| [47:25] | He was like, “Yeah, I can understand why you feel that way.” | 他会说 “我能理解你为什么这么想” |
| [47:29] | I was like, “I don’t really think that you do, | 我就会说 “我不觉得你能理解” |
| [47:32] | but I’m glad that you’re trying.” | “但你能尝试我很高兴” |
| [47:37] | Alex, we have excellent team skills. | 亚历克斯 我们合作得很不错 |
| [47:39] | Well, I thought, I feel like we’re not quite killin’ it, | 我想 只能说我们合作得还不算太差 |
| [47:41] | but we’re, I think we’re doin’ well. | 但我想 我们合作得还行 |
| [47:42] | Really? I think we’re doing great. | 是吗 我觉得我们就是合作得很棒 |
| [47:46] | I’m very happy for Alex and Sanni that it works so well. | 看到亚历克斯和萨尼如此有默契 我很高兴 |
| [47:50] | And I’m, I think I’m just impressed by their relationship, | 他们如此亲密 我也被深深地打动了 |
| [47:55] | but to free solo at that level, | 但要进行高难度的徒手攀岩 |
| [47:58] | you really have to have the mental armor. | 你必须要将内心披上铠甲 |
| [48:01] | Having that romantic relationship around | 而有了浪漫的爱情 |
| [48:03] | is detrimental to that armor. | 会使内心变得脆弱 |
| [48:05] | You have to focus | 你必须保持专注 |
| [48:06] | and inherently a close romantic relationship removes that armor. | 而一份如胶似漆的爱情却会卸下内心的铠甲 |
| [48:09] | You kinda can’t have both at the same time. | 鱼和熊掌不可兼得 |
| [48:39] | There’s always something that has to give you the confidence | 总有些东西会成为你信心的源泉 |
| [48:41] | to go out and free solo a route. | 给你出去徒手攀岩的动力 |
| [48:44] | So sometimes, that confidence just comes from | 有时候 这种信心只是来源于 |
| [48:45] | feeling super, super fit. | 觉得自己非常的建康 |
| [48:48] | Sometimes, that confidence | 有时候 这种信心 |
| [48:49] | comes through preparation and rehearsal. | 来源于充分的准备和练习 |
| [48:52] | But I mean there’s always something that makes you feel ready. | 但总会有事情让你觉得准备好了 |
| [49:02] | There’s something to be said for, like, | 通过徒手攀爬几段峭壁 |
| [49:03] | soloing a bunch of pitches to, like, | 来到达合适的落脚点 |
| [49:04] | get into that right space. | 类似这种体验还是非常不错的 |
| [49:10] | It’s a little stressful. | 我有点紧张 |
| [49:13] | – It’s just, it’s unreal. – Yeah. | – 只是这太难以置信了 – 是啊 |
| [49:16] | And as much as I trust Alex | 尽管我相信亚历克斯 |
| [49:18] | and I know that he’s really methodical, uh, | 我也知道他得心应手 |
| [49:21] | if you’re pushing the edge, eventually you find the edge. | 但如果你挑战极限 最终会止于极限 |
| [49:28] | But then there’s just some things that you’re, like, | 但是有些事情 |
| [49:29] | well, you just have to push that far | 你就只能强迫自己去努力挑战 |
| [49:33] | And El Cap is that cool. | 酋长岩就是那么吸引人 |
| [49:39] | There’s incremental advances | 每件事情 |
| [49:41] | that happen in all kinds of things, | 都在逐渐被改进 |
| [49:42] | but every once in a while there’s just this iconic leap, | 但是每隔一段时间就会有巨大的飞跃 |
| [49:46] | soloing El Cap, | 徒手爬酋长岩 |
| [49:47] | if he pulls this off, is this quantum leap. | 他如果能做到 那就是巨大的飞跃 |
| [49:51] | It is hard to imagine somebody up there by themselves, | 很难想象有人能攀在上面 |
| [49:55] | without a rope, | 不拉绳索 |
| [49:56] | where it’s pretty much all the other big cliffs around here. | 就在这个四周都是峭壁的地方 |
| [49:58] | I can kinda get it. | 我明白它的难度 |
| [50:01] | How many times have you soloed both those routes now? | 你徒手爬那两条路线多少次了 |
| [50:04] | Well, Astroman, three or four times, | 阿斯特罗曼爬了有三四次吧 |
| [50:06] | but the Rostrum, I mean, literally, like, fifty, sixty. | 罗斯特鲁姆差不多也有五六十次了 |
| [50:10] | Wait, you’ve soloed the Rostrum 50 or 60 times? | 等下 你都徒手爬罗斯特鲁姆五六十次了吗 |
| [50:13] | It was like part of the circuit and I would, | 就像是个循环一样 |
| [50:15] | I would go there and I would do it at least twice. | 我每去一次都爬至少两趟 |
| [50:17] | Like I was just glommed on. | 就跟着迷了似的 |
| [50:20] | Not like I had a fear, but just kind of like this is how. | 不是说我害怕 只是有点 |
| [50:22] | Yeah, because you’re so tight. | 对 因为你已经绷起来了 |
| [50:23] | You know, I love that about soloing. | 你知道 我特别喜欢徒手攀岩的这种感觉 |
| [50:24] | My footwork gets really good. | 我的脚上功夫变得特别好 |
| [50:26] | Yeah, really, yeah totally, yeah. | 对 没错 是这样 对 |
| [50:27] | But it’s not for anybody else, this is just for me. | 但并不是别人也这样 只有我自己是这样 |
| [50:30] | Yeah, yeah, just because you feel like you’re. | 对 对 只是因为你觉得你是 |
| [50:31] | And after Astroman, people were like, | 徒手爬了阿斯特罗曼之后 人们会这样 |
| [50:33] | “we wanna film you, film you up there,” | 我们想拍你 拍你攀岩 |
| [50:35] | and I’m like, “Not interested, not even slightly.” | 那我就是 没兴趣 一点兴趣都没有 |
| [50:38] | For me, it was so incredibly important | 对我来说 要为正确的目的而攀岩 |
| [50:40] | to be doing it for the right reasons. | 这是最为重要的 |
| [50:42] | I mean, I think I’m still doing everything for the right reasons, | 我是说 我觉得我做的一切都是为了正确的目的 |
| [50:45] | and I’m still totally stoked, | 我现在还是特别激动 |
| [50:46] | but I feel like from the outside observer, | 但是我觉得旁观者 |
| [50:48] | you know, they’d be like, “Oh, he’s got a movie crew,” | 他们会这样说 他搞了个电影制作团队 |
| [50:51] | like clearly that’s the wrong reasons, you know. | 很明显这不是正确的目的 你懂我意思 |
| [50:53] | The worst thing about having a film crew is | 带着一支电影团队 最糟糕的是 |
| [50:57] | if it changes your mindset. | 它可能会改变你的思维方式 |
| [51:09] | I think Alex is almost ready to do it. | 我觉得亚历克斯已经准备好了 |
| [51:12] | He just wants to take a few more practice laps. | 他还想再做几组热身 |
| [51:16] | And we’re just trying to figure out all of our camera positions. | 我们也在研究每个机位 |
| [51:27] | I mean the soloing headspace is so fragile. | 徒手攀岩的话 头顶区域很容易出问题 |
| [51:32] | We wanna film it well, | 我们想拍摄好 |
| [51:34] | but it’s about not getting in his way and making sure | 但是我们不能妨碍到他 还需要确保 |
| [51:37] | he has the experience he wants. | 他能获得自己想要的体验 |
| [51:44] | The worst possible scenario is that one of us would do something | 最糟糕的情况可能就是 我们团队中的人 |
| [51:47] | that would kill him. | 会不小心害死他 |
| [51:49] | Is it gonna be the drone? | 会是无人机吗 |
| [51:50] | Is it gonna be one of the ropes? | 会是绳索吗 |
| [51:51] | Is it gonna be us accidently knocking off a rock? | 还是有人不小心碰下去一块石头 |
| [51:58] | The idea of falling off is, you know, | 想到会摔下去 |
| [52:00] | obviously I’m trying to avoid that, | 当然我在努力避免 |
| [52:01] | but it’s like kind of okay if it’s just by myself. | 其实我自己一个人的话还好 |
| [52:05] | But, like, I wouldn’t wanna fall off right in front of my friends, | 但是我不想在我朋友面前摔下去 |
| [52:07] | ’cause that’s like, | 因为那样 |
| [52:08] | that’s kind of messed up. | 有点没面子 |
| [52:12] | Where are you comfortable with us being essentially? | 说真的 我们在哪拍你会比较自在 |
| [52:16] | Well, do you have like. | 你们有比如说 |
| [52:19] | The traverse into it? | 横渡段有相机吗 |
| [52:20] | And then a, just a camera above, | 那么就一个相机在上面 |
| [52:22] | sitting above the Boulder Pitch, essentially. | 架在抱石绳段上 怎么样 |
| [52:25] | – It’s distracting. – Yeah, it’s distracting. | – 会有干扰 – 对 会有干扰 |
| [52:27] | Well, it’s not just distracting, but it’s also like, you know, | 不仅仅是干扰 还有就是 |
| [52:31] | nobody wants to see that, I don’t know. | 没人想要看着那些 我不知道怎么说 |
| [52:36] | Like, yeah, I don’t know, yeah, it’s better not to. | 就像 我不知道 还是不要了吧 |
| [52:40] | Some things you’re like, meh. | 有些东西就是 |
| [52:48] | So should I rally into the valley and try to like | 那我应该回到山谷然后试着 |
| [52:51] | – round out plans? – yeah. | – 完善一下计划吗 – 对 |
| [52:58] | Um, the moon set at 4:50 behind the ridge. | 月亮四点五十落下 |
| [53:00] | The spire was touched by the sun at 7:30 | 太阳七点三十升到尖顶 |
| [53:02] | and by 8:05, the sun was to the crux probably. | 大概八点零五太阳会照射到攀爬难点 |
| [53:05] | – 8:05? – Okay. | – 八点零五 – 好的 |
| [53:06] | You don’t want it to be sunny when you get to the crux, | 你不想你爬到攀爬难点时阳光正盛 |
| [53:08] | and it takes three or four hours to get up to the Boulder Problem, | 需要三到四个小时才能到抱石绳段 |
| [53:12] | and it’s fall so in order to beat the sun, | 而且这是在秋天 所以为了回避太阳 |
| [53:14] | you basically have to start in the dark. | 你天不亮就得出发 |
| [53:16] | I kinda think just leave the ground at 4:00 again, basically. | 我还是觉得四点开始比较合适 |
| [53:29] | I don’t know. I’m starting to get kind of psyched. | 我不知道 我都有点神经质了 |
| [53:35] | The moment of just letting go to it | 放手去做这件事的一刻 |
| [53:36] | is in some ways the most peaceful because | 大概是最安宁的一刻了 |
| [53:38] | then it’s like you just do your thing. | 因为你就是在做你自己的事情 |
| [53:39] | There’s no more stress, there’s no more anxiety, | 压力也没有了 焦虑也没有了 |
| [53:41] | there’s no fear, whatever, you just go up and do it. | 恐惧也没有了 无论如何 你去做就可以了 |
| [53:45] | I put on my tight shoes today, it’s like very exciting. | 我今天穿了勒紧的鞋 太爽了 |
| [53:50] | It would be, like, | 就像是 |
| [53:51] | it would be like a samurai pulling out his favorite sword, | 就像武士拔出自己最爱的剑一样 |
| [53:53] | you know like, | 就像 |
| [53:54] | “Oh, my gosh,” you know, and now I’m like, | 天啊 就是 现在我就是 |
| [53:56] | “Oh, time for the, the finely crafted blade.” | 该是我宝剑出鞘的时候了 |
| [53:59] | So stoked. I like sinking into it. | 太激动了 我要迷醉了 |
| [54:02] | It’s, it goes with the Jedi thing, the samurai with the, | 感觉自己像是绝地武士 有了光剑一样 |
| [54:08] | and then I just started taking Ibuprofen. | 我刚开始服镇痛药 |
| [54:09] | I’ve been, like, icing a bunch and, like, | 我在做冰敷了 |
| [54:10] | I think my foot’s gonna be pretty good. | 我想我的脚很快就能恢复 |
| [54:13] | what does Sanni say when you talk to her about it? | 你跟萨尼说这件事的时候她说了什么 |
| [54:17] | Um, I mean I haven’t talked to her that much. | 我其实没跟她说太多 |
| [54:18] | She’s been, like, asking a lot of questions like, | 她一直 问我很多问题 |
| [54:20] | “Oh, you know, how’s it?” | 怎么样 |
| [54:20] | And I’m, I just haven’t really like, I’m just like, | 我呢 我就没有过 我就是 |
| [54:23] | “Oh, we’ll see, we’ll see.” | 到时候就知道了 到时候就知道了 |
| [54:25] | You know, the fewer people know anything, the better really. | 其实越少人知道越好 |
| [54:30] | I had a dream and you were limping and you were like, | 我做了个梦 梦到你一瘸一拐的 你就是 |
| [54:33] | had caught, had like made the exact same fall | 就又像上次一样摔下去了 |
| [54:36] | and fallen on your ankle in the exact same way. | 你的脚踝又像这次一样摔伤 |
| [54:38] | That’s really nice, San San. | 这么想很不错啊 萨萨 |
| [54:39] | – It was like tragic. – I love hearing stories about that. | – 那太悲剧了 – 我喜欢听那样的故事 |
| [54:42] | I woke up, like, “Oh my gosh. I hope that didn’t happen.” | 我醒了之后想 天啊 要是没发生就好了 |
| [54:45] | That’s, that’s really nice. | 那 那真不错 |
| [54:47] | Um, what is your, is your daypack? | 你那个小背包是干嘛用的 |
| [54:49] | They’re bringing it up there for you and Peter? | 他们是给你和彼得带的吗 |
| [54:52] | Um, no. | 不是 |
| [54:54] | For me tomorrow, probably. | 应该是给我明天用的吧 |
| [54:58] | For on the mountain? | 给你爬山用的吗 |
| [54:59] | Um, for the summit, yeah. | 登顶用的 对 |
| [55:01] | Hmm, you and Peter are gonna try and do the whole thing? | 你和彼得要试试爬完整座山吗 |
| [55:04] | Uh, no, Peter won’t be here for a couple of days probably. | 不是 彼得不会在这待多久 |
| [55:06] | Oh, who are you climbing with tomorrow? | 那你明天跟谁一起爬呢 |
| [55:08] | Um, yeah, we’ll just see. | 明天就知道了 |
| [55:11] | Oh, okay, okay. | 那 好吧 好吧 |
| [55:16] | Wait, so are you thinking of soloing it tomorrow, | 等等 那你是想着明天要单独去爬 |
| [55:19] | is that why you’re not telling me who you’re climbing with? | 所以才不告诉我你明天跟谁一起爬的吗 |
| [55:21] | Um, well, I’m not like not telling you, but yeah. | 我不是不告诉你 但是你说的对 |
| [55:24] | Whoa, Alex. | 亚历克斯 |
| [55:27] | How do you feel? | 感觉如何 |
| [55:29] | I’m, you know, I mean, excited. | 我 你知道 我 我很激动 |
| [55:32] | That’s really exciting. Is it that feeling when you’re like… | 这真的很让人激动 那种感觉是你在 |
| [55:35] | So exciting I’m gonna go right back to my book. | 特别兴奋 我又能做攀岩笔记了 |
| [55:37] | Where you’re like, no, I’m not reading it. | 你准备在哪 不 我不要看 |
| [55:41] | When did you decide? | 你什么时候决定的 |
| [55:42] | – When did you decide to do it tomorrow? – No, just, you know, | – 你什么时候决定明天就去的 – 就昨天 |
| [55:45] | yesterday or the day before or something. | 要么就前天 就是这几天 |
| [55:49] | I’m processing. | 我在消化这新消息 |
| [56:16] | I wanna, like I wanna have this more, like, | 在宏观上 我希望 |
| [56:18] | holistic approach that you have where | 在你怀着那种心态 |
| [56:19] | you’re like “Well, we’re all gonna die, | “人终有一死” |
| [56:20] | like might as well do what we wanna do while we’re here and | “在有生之年做自己想做的事” |
| [56:23] | it’s okay when people die,” | “虽死无憾”时 |
| [56:25] | but I feel like I want you to meet me halfway | 与我蓦然相遇 |
| [56:29] | and when you solo to take me into the equation | 这样你徒手攀岩时将我也纳入想做的事中 |
| [56:35] | and then I think you said… | 然后我想起你说过 |
| [56:36] | – Is there a question? – Some, | – 你是要提问吗 – 提几个 |
| [56:37] | – there’s going to be. – Okay. | – 肯定要问的 – 好吧 |
| [56:39] | would putting me into the equation actually ever change anything? | 把我纳入其中会对你有所改变吗 |
| [56:42] | Would you actually make decisions differently? | 你会因此作出不同的决定吗 |
| [56:46] | If I had some kind of obligation to maximize my lifespan, | 如果我有某种尽可能活下去的义务 |
| [56:50] | then like yeah, obviously I’d have to give up soloing and. | 那么我肯定应该放弃徒手攀岩 |
| [56:53] | Was me asking you, do you see that as an obligation now? | 我现在对你的提问 唤醒你的这种义务了吗 |
| [56:57] | Uh, no, no. | 不 不 |
| [57:00] | No, but I appreciate your concerns and I, you know, I respect that, | 但我很感谢你的关心 而且我非常在乎 |
| [57:03] | but, but I, in no way, feel obligated, no. | 但并没有感觉有这种义务 |
| [57:08] | – To maximize lifetime? – No,I don’t know. | – 尽可能活下去 – 不 我也说不准 |
| [57:14] | Um, but I mean like you saying, “Be safer,” | 当你说”尽可能安全”时 |
| [57:16] | I’m kinda like well, I mean I can’t. | 我是 怎么说呢 办不到 |
| [57:20] | You know, I’m already doing my best. | 我已经尽自己最大努力了 |
| [57:21] | So I could just, like, not do certain things, | 所以我也可以不去攀岩了 |
| [57:23] | but then you have, like, weird simmering resentment | 但心中一定会忿忿不平 |
| [57:24] | because it’s things that you love most in life have now been squashed. | 那就像生命中挚爱的事业破灭了 |
| [57:28] | You know what I mean? | 懂我意思吧 |
| [57:46] | – What time is it? – 3:30. | – 现在几点了 – 凌晨三点三十 |
| [57:50] | I just woke up one minute before my alarm. | 闹钟响的前一分钟我就醒了 |
| [57:52] | Yeah, you woke up before or after? | 你是醒早了还是醒晚了 |
| [57:56] | One minute before. | 醒早了一分钟 |
| [58:16] | It’s like always about, like, excellence and perfection. | 一心追求卓越和完美 |
| [58:22] | And I was certainly raised that way, | 我就是这样长大的 |
| [58:23] | you know, that you need to, you need to perform. | 你需要好好表现 |
| [58:29] | It’s also just like kind of rad | 同样 这也很酷 |
| [58:31] | because you’re doing something for the first time | 因为你正在做人类历史上 |
| [58:32] | in human history. | 前无古人的事情 |
| [58:49] | Let’s hope it’s a low gravity day. | 希望今天运气不错 |
| [58:54] | Bye, Huck, see you at the ground. | 再见 赫克 山下见 |
| [58:57] | – Meet you in the ground. – See you, buddy. | – 山下见 – 再见了兄弟 |
| [59:27] | This sucks. I don’t wanna be here. | 糟透了 我不想爬了 |
| [59:36] | I’m over it. | 我不干了 |
| [59:39] | What happened? | 怎么了 |
| [59:41] | I cheated on the slab down there. | 我在下面这块岩壁上歇着了 |
| [59:43] | Might as well radio it. | 不妨对讲一下 |
| [59:45] | Do you wanna talk to him? | 你想和他对话吗 |
| [59:49] | I don’t even know what to say, it’s, like, kind of embarrassing. | 我甚至不知道该说什么 有点尴尬 |
| [59:51] | Uh, hey, whoever’s on the radio, this is Alex. | 对讲机那边的 不管是谁 我是亚历克斯 |
| [59:54] | Um, I think I’m bailing. | 我要放弃了 |
| [59:58] | Wait, could you repeat? | 等等 你能重复一遍吗 |
| [1:00:00] | I think he’s bailing from Heart. | 他想从波特平台处放弃 |
| [1:00:03] | Bailing from Heart, that’s correct. | 从波特平台处放弃 没错 |
| [1:00:09] | It’s kind of disturbing. | 有点令人困扰 |
| [1:00:16] | Yeah, I wonder what it was. | 我想知道是怎么回事 |
| [1:00:18] | I don’t know if I can try with everybody watching. | 我不知道我能不能在众目睽睽之下攀岩 |
| [1:00:21] | It’s too scary. | 太可怕了 |
| [1:00:23] | Just can’t, like, try for real. | 没法真正尝试冒险 |
| [1:00:40] | – Oh, my gosh. – Good morning. | – 哦天哪 – 早上好 |
| [1:00:42] | What are you doing? | 你怎么了 |
| [1:00:43] | Oh, I bailed. | 哦 我放弃了 |
| [1:00:45] | You bailed, | 放弃了 |
| [1:00:45] | Yeah, it’s chilly outside. | 外面太冷了 |
| [1:00:47] | It’s chilly, okay. | 太冷了 好吧 |
| [1:00:49] | Okay. | 好 |
| [1:00:52] | What’s going on? | 怎么了 |
| [1:00:53] | Well, not much. | 没什么 |
| [1:00:58] | What’s up? | 怎么了 |
| [1:00:58] | Oh, I just, I went up to Free Blast and I was, like, nah, | 我刚刚上到极限平板区 然后我 |
| [1:01:01] | I’m not gonna’ do it. But… | 我没再继续了 但是 |
| [1:01:03] | Good for you. | 挺好的 |
| [1:01:03] | Yeah, well, it’s just a little weird, you know? | 只是有点奇怪 知道吗 |
| [1:01:06] | – Yup. – Yeah. – No. | – 嗯 – 嗯 – 不 |
| [1:01:08] | Right, I mean there’s just too many random, | 我是说那里有太多 |
| [1:01:10] | random folks about and stuff, whatever. | 太多无关的人和工作人员 诸如此类 |
| [1:01:12] | Uh-hmm, yeah. | 好吧 |
| [1:01:13] | But, like, basically I did the first half of the first slab. | 我爬了第一块石板的一半 |
| [1:01:16] | And then, uh, and then I just was like, “Oh, I don’t know.” | 然后 我想 我不确定 |
| [1:01:19] | And my feet. | 还有我的脚 |
| [1:01:20] | Right, you made the perfect decision. | 好 你的决定没错 |
| [1:01:22] | I don’t know though, I’m just like. | 我也不确定 我就是觉得 |
| [1:01:25] | But now it all has to drag on longer, I’m like. | 但现在一切都要拖得更久 |
| [1:01:27] | You, yeah, I mean, you never have to go for it. | 你其实没必要强求的 |
| [1:01:30] | You can just. | 你可以 |
| [1:01:30] | Well, I just need it to end, you know. | 我只是想让它结束 |
| [1:01:32] | Yeah, yeah, all the… | 是的 一切… |
| [1:01:35] | – Yeah, you know what I’m talking about. – The circus surrounding you. | – 你知道我指的是什么 – 你周围看戏的人 |
| [1:01:42] | I just can’t imagine, I wonder if he got nervous. | 真是意想不到 我猜他是不是有点紧张 |
| [1:01:47] | Is that possible? | 这样可以吗 |
| [1:01:52] | There’s a lot of things that I don’t totally understand about him. | 他很多地方我都不太能理解 |
| [1:01:54] | – You know? – Yeah, I know. | – 你明白吗 – 我明白 |
| [1:01:56] | I mean in some ways it’d be kind of reassuring that | 某种程度上 知道”史波克”也会紧张 |
| [1:01:59] | Spock has nerves. | 反而让人更安心一点 |
| [1:02:13] | It was the first time I’ve ever gone up on something like real | 这是我第一次认真攀登 |
| [1:02:15] | and then not done it. | 结果却没有完成 |
| [1:02:17] | But it’s also the first time | 但这也是我第一次 |
| [1:02:18] | I’ve ever gone up on something real with people all watching. | 在万众瞩目下攀登 |
| [1:02:23] | By myself, I maybe would have just, like, persevered, | 我孤身一人的话 也许还能坚持下去 |
| [1:02:26] | I don’t know, | 我不确定 |
| [1:02:27] | maybe I just suck, but, | 也许我就是很弱 |
| [1:02:31] | you know, at least I’ve like, at least I’ve tried. | 但至少 至少我尝试过了 |
| [1:02:57] | Thanks for meeting us again. | 谢谢再次和我们会面 |
| [1:03:03] | It’s funny, it always has a certain smell in here, | 这里总有一股味道 很有趣 |
| [1:03:05] | and I wonder if it’s the paint or the. | 我猜可能是涂料还是 |
| [1:03:08] | Yeah, it’s the fresh paint. | 是刚刷的涂料味 |
| [1:03:10] | Dining room with probably also bookshelves. | 餐厅可以装几个书架 |
| [1:03:15] | Wait, so what am, what am I signing? | 等等 我在签什么 |
| [1:03:16] | “Buyers of unit approves the home inspection.” | “购房者批准房屋检验” |
| [1:03:18] | Yeah, Alex told me I get one furniture question a day. | 亚历克斯说我每天提到家装 |
| [1:03:24] | I’ve always thought that I ought to buy a house, | 我总在想 应该买间房子 |
| [1:03:25] | just haven’t quite had the energy to make it all happen myself. | 只是我自己一个人没有足够动力去做 |
| [1:03:29] | I think Sanni will be stoked to have a place to live | 我想 有个地方住萨尼会很高兴的 |
| [1:03:31] | and there’s so much climbing all around Vegas. | 拉斯维加斯周围有很多山可以爬 |
| [1:03:35] | Big sectional here and chair or like sofa and two chairs. | 放套组合沙发 再放上椅子或沙发加两把椅子 |
| [1:03:43] | Potential, like, bar area. | 这里可以做成吧台 |
| [1:03:47] | I would just sleep straight on the carpet. | 我打地铺就行 |
| [1:03:49] | It’d be like. | 就像是 |
| [1:03:58] | Alex was a huge jerk watching me struggle with the tape measure, | 亚历克斯这大混蛋 看我拿着卷尺费力比划 |
| [1:04:02] | being an asshole standing by commenting on how stupid I look, | 袖手旁观 还在一边评论我姿态多傻 |
| [1:04:05] | but not actually offering to help | 但又不来帮忙 |
| [1:04:07] | or be productive or kind in any way. | 不起任何建设性作用 态度都不好一点 |
| [1:04:10] | And so now it’s all gone to shit. | 所以现在一切都完了 |
| [1:04:13] | Yeah, you’re asking about our domestic bliss, it’s nonexistent. | 你想问我们会举案齐眉吗 不存在的 |
| [1:04:17] | You’re so angry, but it’s cracking, it’s cracking. | 你很生气 但这句话就是玩笑了 |
| [1:04:19] | It’s not cracking. | 这不是开玩笑 |
| [1:04:21] | Yeah, it is, it’s cracking. | 就是 就是玩笑 |
| [1:04:21] | No, it’s not, I’m still angry. | 不 没开玩笑 我还是很生气 |
| [1:04:23] | I can tell you’re cracking. | 我看得出来你在开玩笑 |
| [1:04:24] | I’m not cracking. | 我没有开玩笑 |
| [1:04:25] | But you’re not that angry, you’re cracking. | 但你也没有那么生气 你都笑了 |
| [1:04:28] | I’m not cracking. | 我没有笑 |
| [1:04:29] | This is firm resolve of hatred. | 非常坚定地要恨你 |
| [1:04:35] | Oh, boy. | 天哪 |
| [1:04:40] | That one seems very big and very wide. | 那个看起来太大又太宽 |
| [1:04:46] | Whoa, that seems really deep. | 那个好像太深 |
| [1:04:50] | – We should just ask somebody. – I know. | – 我们应该咨询一下别人 – 我知道 |
| [1:04:50] | Let’s keep looking for the smaller ones. | 我们再找找小一点的冰箱吧 |
| [1:04:53] | Oh, this is the $400, that’s. | 这就是四百美元的那款 |
| [1:04:54] | – That’s it! – That’s it, that’s our jam. | – 就是它 – 就是它了 大爱 |
| [1:04:57] | This is actually, like, kind of perfect. | 这台可以说是完美 |
| [1:04:59] | This is like so adequate. | 非常符合我们的需要 |
| [1:05:05] | We have a fridge! | 我们有冰箱了 |
| [1:05:06] | That success. | 很成功 |
| [1:05:10] | Is it possible? | 那个能用吗 |
| [1:05:11] | We had like a sort of a rough patch since Yosemite, | 约塞米蒂之后我们之间的关系有点僵 |
| [1:05:16] | where, I don’t know, | 我说不清 |
| [1:05:18] | Alex isn’t super good about putting a name to how he’s feeling. | 亚历克斯并不善于表达自己的情绪 |
| [1:05:21] | So, he’ll be like, “I know I’m cranky, | 他的态度就是 我知道我很古怪 |
| [1:05:23] | but I don’t really know why | 但我不知道具体哪里怪 |
| [1:05:24] | and I’m not gonna take the time to figure it out.” | 我也懒得花时间去想明白 |
| [1:05:27] | I’m patient, but I also have self-respect. | 我很有耐心 但是我也有自尊心 |
| [1:05:30] | And then, you know, the second that I start being mad, | 我特别生气的时候 |
| [1:05:33] | he’s just like “foom.” | 他还一副状况外的样子 |
| [1:05:38] | How do you make coffee? | 怎么做咖啡呢 |
| [1:05:39] | You need like a filter. | 得有一个过滤器 |
| [1:05:42] | Definitely my relationship with Sanni is, like, | 我交往过的女友中 和萨尼的关系 |
| [1:05:44] | the most healthy and stable relationship I’ve ever had. | 绝对是最健康最稳定的了 |
| [1:05:48] | Oh, look at that, the only thing in the cupboard. | 橱柜里就只有这个 |
| [1:05:51] | Certainly more communicative. | 我也比以前更爱讲话了 |
| [1:05:53] | Even Sanni over the year and a half we’ve been dating is like, | 我们交往一年半后萨尼自己也说 |
| [1:05:55] | “Wow, you’ve really blossomed.” | “哇 你真的成熟了” |
| [1:05:56] | Well, that’s not really promising. | 这可能行不通 |
| [1:05:59] | And you think you put the coffee in there | 你觉得能把咖啡放在这里 |
| [1:06:00] | and then you push the water through it? | 然后让水顺利流出来吗 |
| [1:06:01] | – I don’t how to, um. – my gosh, | – 我不知道怎么 – 天哪 |
| [1:06:04] | – Wow – like, how’s, why? | – 哇 – 怎么了 |
| [1:06:07] | Is this what it is to be, um, a homeowner? | 这就是要当房主的架势了吗 |
| [1:06:09] | You get breakfast and coffee made for you every day? | 你每天都要自己做早餐煮咖啡了吗 |
| [1:06:11] | I don’t, I don’t understand the, | 我 我不太会用 |
| [1:06:12] | do you put the coffee in here and then put the water to it? | 是把咖啡放这里然后倒水吗 |
| [1:06:14] | It’s really complicated. | 确实太复杂了 |
| [1:06:16] | But she sees things in a different way. | 但是她的观念不一样 |
| [1:06:19] | For Sanni the point of life is like happiness. | 萨尼认为 生命的意义在于追求幸福 |
| [1:06:22] | To be with people that make you feel fulfilled and to have a good time. | 和能让你开心的人在一起 共度美好时光 |
| [1:06:27] | For me it’s all about performance. | 对我而言则是在于取得成就 |
| [1:06:30] | The thing is anybody can be happy and cozy. | 任何人都可以过得快乐而舒适 |
| [1:06:34] | Nothing good happens in the world by being happy and cozy. | 可如此 世界就不会有所进步 |
| [1:06:40] | You know, like nobody achieves anything great | 没有人过着快乐而舒适的生活 |
| [1:06:42] | because they’re happy and cozy. | 还能取得伟大的成就 |
| [1:06:46] | You never wanna feel | 你绝对不想 |
| [1:06:47] | like you’re getting in the way of someone’s goal. | 感觉自己是别人实现目标的绊脚石 |
| [1:06:51] | And it’s really hard for me to grasp why he wants this. | 但我真的想不通 他为什么以此为目标 |
| [1:06:57] | But it’s his dream and he obviously still really wants it. | 可这就是他的梦想 他也一定想实现 |
| [1:07:06] | It’s about being a warrior. | 重要的是成为一名战士 |
| [1:07:09] | It doesn’t matter about the cause necessarily. | 具体为什么而战并不重要 |
| [1:07:12] | This is your path and you will pursue it with excellence. | 这是你要走的路 你要力求做到极致 |
| [1:07:18] | You face your fear because your goal demands it. | 为了实现目标 你得直面恐惧 |
| [1:07:22] | That is the goddamn warrior spirit. | 这就是勇士精神 |
| [1:07:26] | I think that the free soloing mentality | 我觉得徒手攀岩时的心态 |
| [1:07:28] | is pretty close to warrior culture, | 就很接近武士文化 |
| [1:07:31] | where you give something 100% focus because your life depends on it. | 两者都要求绝对的专注 这关乎你的性命 |
| [1:08:06] | The move I gave up on in the fall was | 秋天那时 我是在右脚踩在 |
| [1:08:07] | a right foot on this little edge right here, | 这里的那处细小的边缘时放弃的 |
| [1:08:10] | and I basically just have to like stand on the right foot | 我只能靠右脚站立 |
| [1:08:12] | and just trust it. | 并且相信自己的右脚 |
| [1:08:15] | And I was like, “I don’t really wanna have my whole life | 我当时在想 我真的不想把整条命 |
| [1:08:17] | depend on like standing on this one right foot.” | 托付给我的右脚能在这里站稳 |
| [1:08:22] | But maybe I can find another way. | 但或许我能找到别的办法 |
| [1:08:31] | I think this is like kind of the business of the whole deal, | 我觉得这就像押上了全部资产的一笔生意 |
| [1:08:36] | which is interesting because if you’re climbing with a rope | 有趣的是 如果你带着绳子 |
| [1:08:38] | it’s not at all, | 就不会输个精光 |
| [1:08:40] | but without a rope it is. | 但没有绳子就是押上一切了 |
| [1:09:11] | That’s my variation, | 那就是我调整后的办法了 |
| [1:09:17] | I just don’t know. | 我还不确定 |
| [1:09:25] | I think that he’s only comfortable climbing in front of the camera | 他只有在非常自信和安全的时候 |
| [1:09:30] | or in front of any other people when he’s really confident and secure. | 才能在镜头或是其他人面前自如地攀岩 |
| [1:09:35] | And that’s been the dilemma that this whole production has faced, right? | 那就是整个录制面临的困境 对吗 |
| [1:09:38] | – Yeah. – From the beginning. | – 对 – 从一开始就是如此 |
| [1:09:39] | Our being there is always going to change things. | 我们在场 总是会有所改变 |
| [1:09:42] | What made the big difference for me is that he did turn around last year. | 对我而言 最重要的是他去年的放弃 |
| [1:09:46] | He didn’t feel the pressure to have to do it | 他并没有因为我们在场就感到 |
| [1:09:49] | because we were there. | 必须硬着头皮完成 |
| [1:09:51] | And I really, like that to me said a lot. | 这对我而言真的很重要 |
| [1:09:56] | It meant a lot. | 这很重要 |
| [1:10:14] | Is that what you’d want, us not to film it? | 你是希望我们不去拍摄吗 |
| [1:10:18] | Hmm, no. | 也没有 |
| [1:10:20] | I mean, hard to say it but I care about doing it a lot more than I care | 很难说 但是和拍摄相比我更在意的 |
| [1:10:24] | about it being filmed. | 是攀岩本身 |
| [1:10:26] | You know? | 你明白吗 |
| [1:10:27] | You could put your foot down at any time, and, and, | 你随时都可以停下来 |
| [1:10:29] | – you know. – Yeah, I mean, I’m aware of it. | – 你知道 – 对 我很清楚 |
| [1:10:30] | Like, if I want to, I just won’t tell anybody | 如果我愿意 我随时可以瞒着别人 |
| [1:10:32] | – and I’m just gonna do it on my own terms. – Yeah, exactly. | – 然后自己去做这件事 – 没错 |
| [1:10:33] | Like whatever, like I mean that’s obviously on the table. | 和其他的一样 这是显而易见的 |
| [1:10:37] | But obviously that would hose everybody, you know? | 但这会给所有人泼冷水 对吧 |
| [1:10:40] | If you woke up tomorrow and you were like, | 如果你明早醒来后觉得 |
| [1:10:42] | “You know what, screw all of this, | “知道吗 去他的吧 |
| [1:10:43] | I just don’t care enough, like I don’t feel good enough.” | 我没那么在乎 我感到不舒服 |
| [1:10:46] | You know, but that’s like, yeah, | 但那样 |
| [1:10:47] | I mean, of course I, I mean, I know I could do that and just walk away. | 我当然知道自己可以这么做然后离开 |
| [1:10:49] | But it’s like, you know, I mean, you know, I don’t want to. | 但是 我不想这样 |
| [1:11:07] | Having all these people around requires a higher level of preparation, | 周围有这些人在 我就得有更完善的准备 |
| [1:11:10] | a higher level of confidence basically. | 和更充足的信心 |
| [1:11:14] | I need to like dial it in so much that, | 我必须要全神贯注 |
| [1:11:16] | you know, it doesn’t matter if there’s | 不去在意会不会有 |
| [1:11:17] | like a stadium of people watching me | 一整个体育场的人围观我 |
| [1:11:19] | because it’s so easy for me that I’m just like, | 因为这对我而言轻而易举 我只要 |
| [1:11:20] | “Check this out.” And just do it. | 按部就班地来就行 |
| [1:11:24] | Pitch one, stay left towards the top, | 第一段 从左边一路向上爬 |
| [1:11:26] | splitter, it feels more secure. | 腿尽量分开感觉会更安全 |
| [1:11:28] | Pitch two, trust the right foot, rock on, trust the feet, | 第二段 相信右脚 踩稳岩石 相信双脚 |
| [1:11:31] | right hand to the last under cling. | 最后用右手把自己拉上去 |
| [1:11:33] | Eight, easy romp. Go fast. | 八 很容易 快速通过 |
| [1:11:35] | Nine, stay outside of the down climb, careful of blocks. | 九 远离倒悬岩壁 小心石块 |
| [1:11:38] | Pitch 26, sort of lie back and up the corner, | 第二十六段 向外向上绕过山角 |
| [1:11:40] | key left-hand pinch thing, | 关键在于左手的捏点 |
| [1:11:42] | right foot back step on the lower edge, | 右脚向后踩在低一点的边缘处 |
| [1:11:43] | left foot faced against the wall, stand up. | 左脚正对岩壁 站直 |
| [1:11:46] | Left hand to the huge ear jug thing, | 左手移到巨大的耳形岩点 |
| [1:11:47] | switch the feet, match the big jug, | 换脚 两手同时抓住那个大岩点 |
| [1:11:50] | left foot jams into the crack, | 左脚卡在岩缝里 |
| [1:11:51] | then you see right-hand down pulling on the top part of the jug, | 然后右手扣在大岩点上向下拉 |
| [1:11:54] | left hand goes into this flared slot thing, | 左手伸进张开的狭缝中 |
| [1:11:56] | which you can either fist jam or hand jam, either way, | 用拳头或者手卡在里面 |
| [1:11:57] | it’s like a flare jam in the slot. | 卡在楔形缝隙中 |
| [1:11:59] | Sag down onto it, | 靠这一点支撑 |
| [1:12:00] | right hand crosses under to an under cling, side pull. | 右手从下面伸向岩点 侧拉 |
| [1:12:03] | Right foot sinks low to a flat edge, | 右脚踩住一条平边 |
| [1:12:05] | left foot steps through to an edge, | 左脚跟上踩住另一条棱边 |
| [1:12:06] | right foot back steps really high | 右脚收回来用力抬高 |
| [1:12:08] | so you can sag your weight around the corner | 这样就能在岩角上支撑住身体 |
| [1:12:10] | without having to swing. | 而不用荡过去了 |
| [1:12:11] | Left foot out to the big horn, | 左脚伸到大尖角上 |
| [1:12:13] | right hand through to a little finger pocket, | 右手手指插到一个小洞中 |
| [1:12:14] | you go left foot out to an edge around the corner, | 左脚踏住墙角另一边的岩点 |
| [1:12:17] | you can actually push all the way into the corner, | 可以把身体完全贴近内角 |
| [1:12:18] | then you can grab this down pulling right hand, flat, | 然后用右手用力拉 平移 |
| [1:12:20] | like a small crimp. | 像是一把小钳子 |
| [1:12:21] | Left hand to the other under cling, | 左手抓住另一个岩点 |
| [1:12:22] | switch your feet on the rail and then just reach | 把脚挪到横杆上 然后一路 |
| [1:12:24] | through the jugs, and then it’s done. | 攀着大凹槽上去 就可以了 |
| [1:12:27] | The key thing for the crux, pull hard, trust feet, | 通过难点的关键是用力拉 信任脚感 |
| [1:12:29] | “trust” underline, | “信任”加下划线 |
| [1:12:31] | double exclamation point, period. | 两个感叹号 句号 |
| [1:12:34] | Autopilot. Period. | 跟着直觉走 句号 |
| [1:12:56] | I mean, you know, it’s not surprising that Ueli died. | 乌里遇难不是什么奇怪的事 |
| [1:12:59] | Considering he’s always doing crazy dangerous things, | 因为他总是在疯狂冒险 |
| [1:13:02] | but I kind of thought he was gonna survive. | 但我本来觉得他能成功的 |
| [1:13:08] | Ueli talked about doing sketchy climbs | 乌里说过进行冒险攀岩 |
| [1:13:10] | that you just kind of squeak out once. | 你总要勉强一次 |
| [1:13:13] | You know I’ve always tried not to. | 我一直都尽力避免 |
| [1:13:17] | But when I was talking to him about, about Free Rider, I was like, | 但和他谈到自由攀岩线路的时候 我想 |
| [1:13:20] | “Oh maybe Free Rider is one of those routes | “也许对自由攀岩线路这种事 |
| [1:13:21] | that I just need to go squeak out once and | 我应该勉强挑战一次 |
| [1:13:23] | just like make sure it’s my day.” | 挑个黄道吉日” |
| [1:13:26] | You know, obviously it wasn’t his day. | 看来那天他运气不好 |
| [1:13:38] | After Ueli died, it’s interesting with Alex, | 乌里去世后 亚历克斯的反应不大 |
| [1:13:41] | how he justifies all that stuff away so quickly. | 他很快就接受了这件事 |
| [1:13:45] | He was just kind of like shrugged it off, he’s like | 他耸耸肩就把这件事抛到脑后 他说 |
| [1:13:47] | “Oh, yeah, yeah, it could happen.” | “是啊 这种事很正常” |
| [1:13:53] | I talked to Alex for a really long time about all of this. | 关于这件事 我和亚历克斯聊了很久 |
| [1:13:56] | And I was like, “What if you die? | 我问他”如果你死了呢 |
| [1:13:58] | Like what if you die just like Ueli died?” | 如果你像乌里一样死了呢” |
| [1:14:02] | Ueli and his wife, Nicole, had a really beautiful relationship | 乌里和妻子妮可志同道合 |
| [1:14:06] | and they would climb together. | 经常一起攀岩 |
| [1:14:08] | Alex said at one point, “Well, what did she expect?” | 亚历克斯一度说 “她指望什么呢” |
| [1:14:13] | And I got, I was like, “What do you mean what did she expect?” | 我就说 “你这是什么意思” |
| [1:14:17] | I was like, “I’m Nicole, Alex! | “我就像妮可 亚历克斯 |
| [1:14:19] | And I don’t expect that.” | 我不想要这种结果” |
| [1:14:24] | Tons of more people have died and Alex is kind of | 无数人因此去世 而亚历克斯 |
| [1:14:27] | the most likely to die, but I know he’s gonna do it. | 遇难的可能性最大 但我知道他还是会去做 |
| [1:14:32] | So I’d like to be there to help him prepare as well as he can. | 所以我想帮他尽力做好准备 |
| [1:14:38] | Oh, shit. | 糟了 |
| [1:14:39] | If he went to solo it and fell and died, | 如果他无保护攀岩 最后坠落而亡 |
| [1:14:42] | and I hadn’t helped him prepare that would be harder for me. | 而我并没有帮他准备 那我就更难接受了 |
| [1:14:46] | Like, I just know that I’m, | 我知道我… |
| [1:14:47] | I’m one of the people that’s gonna be able to do that the best | 我是最适合帮他准备的人之一 |
| [1:14:49] | with him and so, I should. | 所以我应该这么做 |
| [1:14:59] | He said he’s feeling tinges of, of like game time. | 他说他感觉最终时刻就要到了 |
| [1:15:05] | I think there’s a chance he goes tomorrow. | 我觉得他可能明天会去 |
| [1:15:11] | They are remote cameras, | 这是远程摄像机 |
| [1:15:14] | because we wanna stay out of Alex’s line of sight | 因为我们要在亚历克斯攀登期间 |
| [1:15:17] | when he’s doing it. | 避开他的视线 |
| [1:15:20] | Okay, everybody knows what to do if something goes wrong. | 大家都知道一旦发生意外该怎么做 |
| [1:15:23] | Josh, just to confirm who should Mikey call? | 乔什 确认一下麦基要打给谁 |
| [1:15:27] | The easiest thing would just be 911. | 最简单的就是急救电话 |
| [1:15:30] | And that we will get kicked into gear | 我们会迅速响应 |
| [1:15:32] | and tell them what you know. | 告诉他们你掌握的情况 |
| [1:15:34] | A climber. | 一个攀岩者 |
| [1:15:35] | Yeah. | 对 |
| [1:15:37] | All right, no mistakes tomorrow. | 明天不要出差错 |
| [1:15:50] | I’m worried that tomorrow is gonna be it, like, you know, | 我担心明天就是终点了 |
| [1:15:55] | like Alex’s existence will be over. | 亚历克斯会遭遇不测 |
| [1:16:00] | I was like, “Oh, I have to be prepared for that outcome and | 我在想 “我必须做好心理准备 |
| [1:16:04] | I have to realize that that is a real possibility.” | 我必须明白真的有这种可能” |
| [1:16:12] | Oh, god. | 天呐 |
| [1:16:25] | Remember when you said you were gonna stand up for my goodbye? | 记不记得你说过我告别的时候你会站起来 |
| [1:16:27] | – Oh, is it time? – Yeah. | – 现在吗 – 是啊 |
| [1:16:30] | But you don’t have to stand up, but you have to sit up. | 但你必须站起来 你必须坐起来 |
| [1:16:35] | Oh, you could’ve just left me. | 你可以离开我的 |
| [1:16:39] | No, no, I’m never gonna go. | 不不 我永远都不会走 |
| [1:16:44] | Okay, drive safe. | 开车小心 |
| [1:16:47] | Ciao, see you later! | 再见 明天见 |
| [1:17:05] | I mean, I didn’t ask her to leave. | 我没有要求她走 |
| [1:17:07] | I mean, I’ll never ask her to leave. | 我永远不会赶她走的 |
| [1:17:09] | But, you know, I think she kind of understands that, | 但是 我觉得她大概明白 |
| [1:17:13] | that it’s probably easier for me if she’s gone. | 如果她不在 我会轻松一点 |
| [1:17:19] | I don’t, I, the whole like saying goodbye thing I’m like | 对于告别 我一直在想 |
| [1:17:22] | “I’ll probably see her in like five days or something.” | “也许五天后我就会见到她了” |
| [1:17:25] | It’s not like goodbye, it’s just goodbye for a few days. | 这不是永别 只是暂时告别几天而已 |
| [1:17:33] | You know, I mean there’s just that like weird thought of like, | 我脑子里有很多奇怪的想法 比如 |
| [1:17:38] | don’t freaking let that be our last hug or whatever. | 千万别成为我们的最后一个拥抱之类的 |
| [1:17:45] | You know, like I shouldn’t be having that thought… | 我不应该有这种想法… |
| [1:17:53] | of like “What if something happens? | “如果出事了怎么办 |
| [1:17:57] | Like what if I don’t see him again?” | 如果我再也见不到他了怎么办” |
| [1:18:02] | You know, like, “Why do you wanna do this? | 我在想 “你为什么要这么做 |
| [1:18:05] | Like it’s a totally crazy goal.” | 这种目标简直是疯了” |
| [1:19:43] | Hey, Jimmy, do you copy? | 吉米 能收到吗 |
| [1:19:46] | This is Jimmy. | 我是吉米 |
| [1:19:49] | He just started climbing. | 他刚刚开始攀岩了 |
| [1:20:29] | It is so slippery right there. | 那里太滑了 |
| [1:20:32] | This is where he bailed. | 他就是在这儿放弃的 |
| [1:21:32] | Mikey, do you copy? This is Jimmy. | 麦基 能听到吗 我是吉米 |
| [1:21:36] | Hey, Jimmy, this is Mikey. | 吉米 我是麦基 |
| [1:21:38] | Can you let me know when he’s through the slab pitch? | 等他通过岩壁段的时候能告诉我吗 |
| [1:21:43] | He’s through the slab pitch. | 他通过岩壁路段了 |
| [1:21:45] | He’s through it? | 他已经过去了 |
| [1:21:47] | Yup, he’s almost at half dollar. | 对 他快到五角岩缝了 |
| [1:21:50] | He’s moving fast. | 他动作很快 |
| [1:21:54] | Yes, Jimmy, he is of course ahead of schedule. | 是的 吉米 他的进度提前了 |
| [1:22:00] | So how far is he from Mammoth? | 他离猛犸平台还有多远 |
| [1:22:04] | Doing the half dollar right now. | 正在通过五角岩缝 |
| [1:22:23] | 6:21 he’s down climbing to Heart Ledge | 六时二十一分 他向下爬到了心形平台 |
| [1:22:25] | there’s a party, in a Porter Ledge still. | 那儿有一群人 还是在波特平台上 |
| [1:22:32] | They’re awake and there’s, they’re aware. | 他们都醒了 发现了他 |
| [1:22:35] | They’re like “Here comes Honnold.” Oh, my God. | G他们在想”霍诺德来了” 天呐 |
| [1:22:39] | A Dude in a bunny suit. | 一个穿兔子套装的男人 |
| [1:22:46] | The person is getting up now. | 那个人要站起来了 |
| [1:22:48] | Uh yeah, no there’s a tail. | 不 有尾巴 |
| [1:22:50] | This person has a tail and it’s either a chicken head or a bunny. | 他有尾巴 不是鸡头就是兔子 |
| [1:22:56] | Oh, it’s a unicorn. | 是独角兽 |
| [1:22:59] | Come on. Who does that? | 拜托 谁会这么干 |
| [1:23:02] | I’ve never seen that on El Cap. | 我从没在酋长岩上见过这种人 |
| [1:23:05] | Wow, and Alex is gone. | 亚历克斯离开了 |
| [1:23:09] | Okay, so he’s entering the Hollow Flake at 6:49. | 他在六时四十九分进入了中空页岩区 |
| [1:23:12] | He just did the Hollow Flake down climb | 他刚完成了中空页岩区的下行路段 |
| [1:23:15] | and is in the Hollow Flake now. | 现在进入了中空页岩区 |
| [1:23:21] | And then the thing about Free Rider | 自由攀岩线路的特点是 |
| [1:23:23] | is that from the base of Hollow Flake | 从中空页岩区底部开始 |
| [1:23:25] | it’s one crack system all the way to the top | 有一条岩缝系统一直贯穿到崖顶 |
| [1:23:27] | which is like what, 2,000 feet? | 差不多有六百一十米吧 |
| [1:23:31] | That’s the most magnificent crack on planet earth. | 堪称地球上最壮丽的岩缝 |
| [1:23:43] | Doug, this is Jimmy. | 道格 是我吉米 |
| [1:23:44] | Do you know if they’ve radioed if he’s gotten to the Monster yet? | 他们有通过无线电告诉你他到巨兽裂缝了吗 |
| [1:23:50] | Yeah, he’s there now. | 有 他刚刚到 |
| [1:24:24] | He’s almost through it. | 就快爬过去了 |
| [1:24:41] | There, he’s coming up now actually. | 瞧 他现在确实快到了 |
| [1:24:44] | Now we see him like at the same height as the spire. | 他现在到了相当于峰顶的高度 |
| [1:24:47] | But you guys are all in position ready to go? | 但你们大家都已经各就各位了吗 |
| [1:24:51] | Yeah, Sam and I are at the bottom of the head wall. | 准备好了 萨姆和我就在山墙底下 |
| [1:24:56] | My guess is he’s 15 minutes from the Boulder Problem or so. | 我猜他十五分钟左右能到抱石绳段 |
| [1:26:34] | He just did the karate kick. | 他刚刚来了招空手道踢 |
| [1:26:40] | He’s got it. | 他做到了 |
| [1:26:47] | Oh, yeah. | 太棒了 |
| [1:26:50] | That is way too gnarly. | 这也太险了 |
| [1:26:52] | – Oh, my God. – He did it. Jesus. | – 我的天呐 – 他做到了 天呐 |
| [1:26:57] | He just sent the boulder problem. | 他刚刚到了抱石绳段 |
| [1:27:01] | He must be so stoked. | 他一定兴奋极了 |
| [1:27:04] | I mean to have the slabs and the boulder problem | 把耐力角和抱石绳段甩在身后 |
| [1:27:06] | behind him is monumental. | 对他而言意义重大 |
| [1:27:12] | – Here’s the Enduro huh? – Yup, this is the Enduro. | – 到耐力角了吗 – 没错 到耐力角了 |
| [1:27:52] | I can’t believe you guys are actually gonna watch. | 我不敢相信你们竟然还真敢看 |
| [1:27:56] | Oh, I don’t wanna, I don’t, I don’t, I don’t, I don’t, no, no. | 不 我不想 我不要 不要 |
| [1:28:23] | Oh, my God. | 我的天呐 |
| [1:28:34] | Yeah, that’s kind of exposed right there. | 是啊 他现在几乎完全悬在外面 |
| [1:28:35] | Oh, my God, it’s so exposed. | 天呐 这也太悬了 |
| [1:28:39] | That arête move as he stepped around has gotta be, | 那种在刃嶙上行走真的太 |
| [1:28:41] | I mean that’s one of the most exposed moves | 这是攀爬酋长岩上最险峻 |
| [1:28:43] | like anywhere on El Cap. | 最艰险的一段 |
| [1:28:47] | If you just step out, it all drops away. | 稍有退却 就会滚落下来 |
| [1:29:43] | Yeah, buddy. | 真棒 伙计 |
| [1:29:46] | Alex is having the best day of his life. | 今天是亚历克斯的巅峰之日 |
| [1:29:49] | I don’t know. Not me. | 不好说 反正我不太好受 |
| [1:29:52] | I’m done, yeah, no, this is it, | 我受够了 没错 就这样吧 |
| [1:29:54] | I don’t, we don’t need to do this again. | 我不 我们没必要再重来一次 |
| [1:30:00] | Yeah, no. | 没错 不要了 |
| [1:32:06] | It’s over now. | 要结束了 |
| [1:32:13] | Oh, God, it’s done, woo-hoo! | 我的天呐 登顶了 太棒了 |
| [1:32:19] | Oh, God. | 天呐 |
| [1:32:22] | Oh, God, wow. | 天呐 |
| [1:32:27] | Oh, my God, I can’t believe what I just witnessed. | 老天 简直不敢相信我刚亲眼目睹了什么 |
| [1:33:07] | Oh, god. | 天呐 |
| [1:33:10] | Good to see you again, yay. | 很高兴再次见到你 好耶 |
| [1:33:19] | So delighted. | 太高兴了 |
| [1:33:22] | That felt so good, it’s freaking raged. | 感觉棒极了 太紧张了 |
| [1:33:26] | Like a gigantic weight off of my shoulders too. | 现在感觉如释重负 |
| [1:33:30] | I have to admit, I mean. | 我得承认 |
| [1:33:33] | So delighted, what a journey. | 太高兴了 这趟旅行太棒了 |
| [1:33:39] | Yeah, I just can’t even believe after eight years of dreaming, | 是啊 不敢相信八年的梦想 |
| [1:33:46] | oh San-san’s calling me. | 萨萨打电话给我 |
| [1:33:49] | Hello? | 你好呀 |
| [1:33:54] | Yeah, so delighted. | 是我 太高兴了 |
| [1:33:55] | Oh my, you’re so delighted, that’s putting it lightly. | 天呐 你太高兴了 这也太轻描淡写了 |
| [1:33:59] | I’ve like never smiled so much. Don’t say anything too… | 我从没像这样大笑过 别说太… |
| [1:34:03] | I wanna see it. What’s that? | 我想看到的 说什么来着 |
| [1:34:04] | Like, I told you I wanted to see that smile. | 我说过我想看见你那样的笑脸 |
| [1:34:07] | Yeah, I know. | 是啊 我知道 |
| [1:34:08] | I’ve like never cried so hard and I didn’t even see it coming. | 我从来没哭成这样 我都没想到我会哭 |
| [1:34:12] | Showing that you talk now, I was just like “Blah.” | 你现在还能说上话来 真是太讨厌了 |
| [1:34:16] | Yeah, no, I’m, I’m sort of at, | 是啊 我有点 |
| [1:34:17] | at risk of crying here too, I’m like, I feel quite emotional. | 我也有点想哭 我现在百感交集 |
| [1:34:22] | Yeah, no, don’t cry San-san it will make me cry. | 这样对了 别哭 萨萨 别惹的我也想哭 |
| [1:34:25] | But Claire says cry it. | 但查理说哭出来吧 |
| [1:34:28] | I think the movie would be better if I burst into tears, but I, | 我觉得如果我哭出来电影效果会更好 但我 |
| [1:34:30] | I don’t really want to. | 我不是很想哭 |
| [1:34:32] | But, well I do want to kind of, but. | 但 我是有点想 |
| [1:34:36] | I’m so happy. | 我好开心 |
| [1:34:37] | Oh, God. | 天呐 |
| [1:34:38] | I’m so happy. | 我好开心 |
| [1:34:41] | Yeah. | 是啊 |
| [1:34:42] | I’m so happy. | 我好开心 |
| [1:34:47] | Well, okay. | 好了 |
| [1:34:48] | I’ll see you, I’ll see you in like six hours or something. | 回头见 我大概六个多小时后就能见到你 |
| [1:34:52] | And I’ll see you soon, yeah. | 好的 回见 |
| [1:34:53] | Yeah, okay, I love you. | 好的 我爱你 |
| [1:34:54] | Thank you so much, I appreciate you. | 非常感谢 真的谢谢你 |
| [1:34:56] | – I love you too. – You’re, you’re the best. | – 我也爱你 – 你是最棒的 |
| [1:34:58] | And I appreciate you and I’m really proud of you. | 我很爱你 我真的以你为傲 |
| [1:35:00] | yay. | 好耶 |
| [1:35:04] | I don’t know. | 我说不好 |
| [1:35:04] | I don’t, I don’t think the mountain looked | 我觉得今早这座山看着 |
| [1:35:05] | that scary this morning. | 没那么可怕 |
| [1:35:07] | It’s funny because it does look the same | 有趣的是山还是那座山 |
| [1:35:08] | and hiking up looked the same, | 攀岩的方式也没有变 |
| [1:35:10] | everything just felt pretty much the same, | 所有情况看起来似乎都差不多 |
| [1:35:11] | except I just didn’t have much of a backpack. | 除了我没有背大背包以外 |
| [1:35:14] | I did, I forgot my rope and rack. | 我确实遗忘了我的绳子和架子 |
| [1:35:16] | I felt so good. | 我感觉棒极了 |
| [1:35:18] | I mean that’s why I’m so happy | 正因如此我才如此高兴 |
| [1:35:18] | that the experience was like what I hoped for. | 我想要的就是这种体验 |
| [1:35:21] | I didn’t compromise on any of the things | 我没有向那些对我而言 |
| [1:35:22] | that were super important to me. | 非常重要的东西妥协 |
| [1:35:25] | Huh, yeah, that felt good. | 这种感觉棒极了 |
| [1:35:28] | All right. So what’s next, | 好吧 接下来呢 |
| [1:35:29] | what are you gonna do Alex? | 接下来你要干什么 亚历克斯 |
| [1:35:31] | I’m probably gonna hang board. | 我可能要挂会板 |
| [1:35:32] | You’re gonna hang board? | 你想挂会板 |
| [1:35:35] | A normal person would probably take the afternoon off. | 正常人或许会想休息一下午 |
| [1:35:49] | Thanks again for coming out and climbing with me. | 谢谢你和我一起去攀岩 |
| [1:35:51] | I’m really proud of you. | 我真的以你为傲 |
| [1:35:53] | Good work not plummeting to your death. | 还好没有暴跌身亡 |
| [1:35:55] | Really glad it’s over. | 很高兴都结束了 |
| [1:35:59] | Oh, my gosh, you’re here, oh, my God! | 我的天呐 你来了 天呐 |
| [1:36:04] | Oh, my gosh, I’m so happy for you, | 天呐 我真为你感到高兴 |
| [1:36:07] | you did it and you’re done. | 你去做并且成功了 |
| [1:36:10] | You know some of the people that have come before you, | 你知道在你之前就有人来过这儿 |
| [1:36:13] | they, they didn’t quit while they were ahead. | 他们领先时没有选择止步不前 |
| [1:36:16] | Maybe it’s good. | 或许这是好事 |
| [1:36:17] | Maybe I don’t need to keep charging ahead. | 或许我无需时刻保持领先 |
| [1:36:20] | Right now there’s some kid | 此时此刻会有某个小屁孩 |
| [1:36:21] | that just read about El Cap being soloed and he’s like. | 读到有人徒手登上了酋长岩 会说 |
| [1:36:23] | “What’s bigger?” | “还有什么更了不起的” |
| [1:36:24] | Like “What’s cooler?” | “有什么更酷的” |
| [1:36:25] | And I mean somebody’s gonna think of something | 我是说肯定有人会想到某些事 |
| [1:36:26] | and it’s gonna be cooler. | 会更加的刺激 |
| [1:36:28] | But I don’t know if that will be me. | 但我不知道我会不会也这样 |
| [1:36:31] | Maybe, I don’t know. | 或许吧 我不清楚 |